Filed under: Dendrobium Orchid
Question:
Carmela Orchids new website. http://www.carmelaorchids.net/home/ They are the best! They are a MUST visit for anyone going to Hawaii. Be prepared to spend some time and definately some money, with their great plants and prices. Debra
Response:
Hi, again, Although I, too, am guilty of leaving too many posts mingled with mine, it didn’t seem outwardly obvious, who had written the original. In reply to yours, CadillacWoman, get yourself an inexpensive kit. Although you may have to have someone do the electric for you, the kits are not terribly difficult to assemble. . . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html
Response:
I am the best orchid(ist) for your environment! LOL I’m green (with envy), have never flowered in my present environment and think I need the amount of light and humidity your sunroom/office offers. Please send for me right away! Thanks! Robertianum campolii
Response:
[snip] Wow! These sound great!!! Thank you so much for the information. I’m printing out your list. I’m sure I can find them on the Web this spring (too cold here to ship now), or join the Massachusetts Orchid Society and meet local breeders (if there are any).
No problem. There are two really large breeders/growers of mini and compact catts in Hawaii that I’d recommend you check out: H&R nurseries, and Carmela’s. The last one just got a website. Also in Hawaii are several good mail order companies that primarily retail but also do a bit of breeding themselves. Try Exotic Orchids of Maui, Marty’s, or Kawamoto’s, they all have good wbsites. I’d also recommend Carter and Holmes in S. Carolina – they are one of the leading catt breeders in the world. There are also many other good vendors. Most vendors will gladly discuss with you what plants are best for your growing conditions. Your light description leads me to believe you’ve got a bit more light than I thought and so most of the cattleyas and their relatives are possible for you. You could probably grow many of the encyclias and their hybrids; they have the advantage of longer blooming period (due to long flower spikes and sequentially opening flowers) than many of the other catt relatives. Some of the encyclias can be in bloom for most of the year. Your growing conditions probably are also good for the zygopetalums. Indeed, it’s probably easier to tell you what to not spend your money on! I’d avoid: cymbidiums, most vandas and their relatives, phals (mostly). Good luck, your bankaccount will need it! -dan
Response:
I am the best orchid(ist) for your environment! LOL I’m green (with envy), have never flowered in my present environment and think I need the amount of light and humidity your sunroom/office offers. Please send for me right away! Thanks! Robertianum campolii
Okay, but can you be espaliered or grown as a standard? I’ll have vertical spaces to fill this summer when the passiflora, orange tree, and hybiscus move to the patio 
It IS a nice environment, but it’s so toasty, working in it entails wearing shorts and a T-shirt–even in the dead of winter. (Always good for a double-take from the neighbors and the Fed Ex man.) For some reason, though, the cats are perfectly happy to snooze here. The little one keeps stepping on the keyboard, though.
Response:
MOS has a website. Depending on where you’re located, there’s also a NH orchid society, Amherst, and a Cape and Island. Check out the websites. There are no vendors left in Boston but some are listed on the websites. Ken Woodward Newton, MA http://kwoodward.net
Thanks Ken! I’ll try to go to their next meeting when they post it. I’m about a two-minute drive from Mahoney’s in Winchester and have been buying my orchids there. They are overpriced (as is everything that Mohoney’s sells), but some bargains can found when orchids stop flowering. Yesterday I got a 6" pot of a Phal hybrid that’s a cross between Tinny Diamond and Tinny Moonlight for less than $7. I don’t have a clue as to what I bought actually *looks* like, but I’m having a lot of fun–and learning a lot–as I play detective and try to navigate the naming conventions. I don’t know about your area, but some of the Super Stop and Shop stores also carry orchids–one of their vendors is the same vendor that sells to Mahoney’s. Last week S &S had a nice Lady’s Slipper for $19, but the leaves looked a little rough so I didn’t take it.
Response:
Do you perhaps have the website addy for Carmela’s? I’ve done a search and can’t find it. Cindy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – [snip] Wow! These sound great!!! Thank you so much for the information. I’m printing out your list. I’m sure I can find them on the Web this spring (too cold here to ship now), or join the Massachusetts Orchid Society and meet local breeders (if there are any). No problem. There are two really large breeders/growers of mini and compact catts in Hawaii that I’d recommend you check out: H&R nurseries, and Carmela’s. The last one just got a website. Also in Hawaii are several good mail order companies that primarily retail but also do a bit of breeding themselves. Try Exotic Orchids of Maui, Marty’s, or Kawamoto’s, they all have good wbsites. I’d also recommend Carter and Holmes in S. Carolina – they are one of the leading catt breeders in the world. There are also many other good vendors. Most vendors will gladly discuss with you what plants are best for your growing conditions. Your light description leads me to believe you’ve got a bit more light than I thought and so most of the cattleyas and their relatives are possible for you. You could probably grow many of the encyclias and their hybrids; they have the advantage of longer blooming period (due to long flower spikes and sequentially opening flowers) than many of the other catt relatives. Some of the encyclias can be in bloom for most of the year. Your growing conditions probably are also good for the zygopetalums. Indeed, it’s probably easier to tell you what to not spend your money on! I’d avoid: cymbidiums, most vandas and their relatives, phals (mostly). Good luck, your bankaccount will need it! -dan
Response:
You’ll find that Lexington Gardens also has some orchids, but they are really pricey. Like Mahoney’s, however, they sometimes have a bargain table. Mail order can work, even in winter. Ken Woodward Newton, MA http://kwoodward.net
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – MOS has a website. Depending on where you’re located, there’s also a NH orchid society, Amherst, and a Cape and Island. Check out the websites. There are no vendors left in Boston but some are listed on the websites. Ken Woodward Newton, MA http://kwoodward.net Thanks Ken! I’ll try to go to their next meeting when they post it. I’m about a two-minute drive from Mahoney’s in Winchester and have been buying my orchids there. They are overpriced (as is everything that Mohoney’s sells), but some bargains can found when orchids stop flowering. Yesterday I got a 6" pot of a Phal hybrid that’s a cross between Tinny Diamond and Tinny Moonlight for less than $7. I don’t have a clue as to what I bought actually *looks* like, but I’m having a lot of fun–and learning a lot–as I play detective and try to navigate the naming conventions. I don’t know about your area, but some of the Super Stop and Shop stores also carry orchids–one of their vendors is the same vendor that sells to Mahoney’s. Last week S &S had a nice Lady’s Slipper for $19, but the leaves looked a little rough so I didn’t take it.
Response:
Actually, it’s Susan that’s having the trouble with them–I was the original poster. You’re so lucky to have a greenhouse. If I had one, I wouldn’t ask for another thing for at least a month – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, Cadillacwoman, You probably have trouble growing phas because most the plants that you say you are growing tolerate a great deal of light. Phals do not do well in my greenhouse either because I have a great deal of light — 65% shade cloth, but as you know light comes in from the sides this time of year, and I know some people use shade paint successfully; however, I usually keep the good phals inside as they are ideal houseplants. In addition, I think that phals are more prone to high light, snails and slugs, and too much water when grown in a greenhouse. . . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html I would classify what you have told us as "intermediate" meaning you can grow most things that do not want temperatures in the extremes. We have a greater temp. swing than you do. We get down to low 50’s in the gh. And on a sunny winter day can reach 80 easily. I probably have more light than you. So although I grow Ascacenda, Cattleya, Colmera, and other intergenerics like Wilsonara, Oncidium, Encyclia, Epidendrum, Brasavola, Dendrobium, Angraecum, Aerangis, and anything else except Miltonia. I would suggest you try what you like and what seems to like you. Phalaenopsis do not like me. Thank you for your advice! And I hope you have better luck with Phalenopsis. Here, they’re for sale everywhere–nurseries, a local grocery store, Home Depot–so I assumed they were the easiest orchids to grow. Evidently not the right conclusion. The tag on one of the Phalenopsis that I bought said NEVER to put it in direct sunlight. Maybe that’s the key.
Response:
All of this is sound advice. I have one other recommendation, however. All those other plants have to go! You’ll need all the space you can get to let your new addiction to progess. Good luck. — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do you perhaps have the website addy for Carmela’s? I’ve done a search and can’t find it. Cindy [snip] Wow! These sound great!!! Thank you so much for the information. I’m printing out your list. I’m sure I can find them on the Web this spring (too cold here to ship now), or join the Massachusetts Orchid Society and meet local breeders (if there are any). No problem. There are two really large breeders/growers of mini and compact catts in Hawaii that I’d recommend you check out: H&R nurseries, and Carmela’s. The last one just got a website. Also in Hawaii are several good mail order companies that primarily retail but also do a bit of breeding themselves. Try Exotic Orchids of Maui, Marty’s, or Kawamoto’s, they all have good wbsites. I’d also recommend Carter and Holmes in S. Carolina – they are one of the leading catt breeders in the world. There are also many other good vendors. Most vendors will gladly discuss with you what plants are best for your growing conditions. Your light description leads me to believe you’ve got a bit more light than I thought and so most of the cattleyas and their relatives are possible for you. You could probably grow many of the encyclias and their hybrids; they have the advantage of longer blooming period (due to long flower spikes and sequentially opening flowers) than many of the other catt relatives. Some of the encyclias can be in bloom for most of the year. Your growing conditions probably are also good for the zygopetalums. Indeed, it’s probably easier to tell you what to not spend your money on! I’d avoid: cymbidiums, most vandas and their relatives, phals (mostly). Good luck, your bankaccount will need it! -dan
Response:
I would classify what you have told us as "intermediate" meaning you can grow most things that do not want temperatures in the extremes. We have a greater temp. swing than you do. We get down to low 50’s in the gh. And on a sunny winter day can reach 80 easily. I probably have more light than you. So although I grow Ascacenda, Cattleya, Colmera, and other intergenerics like Wilsonara, Oncidium, Encyclia, Epidendrum, Brasavola, Dendrobium, Angraecum, Aerangis, and anything else except Miltonia. I would suggest you try what you like and what seems to like you. Phalaenopsis do not like me. Relax and enjoy, you describe a marvelous growing room. SuE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
Response:
[snip] Before I race out and buy more plants, could anyone tell me if I’m on the right track? Thanks so much for any advice offered.
Congratulations! You’ve asked THE question that will lead you to success. Finding orchids for your environment, vice trying to change your environment for some orchids, is the key to success. As others have said your temps look like ‘intermediate’; the question is your lighting. With all those windows you could have high light if you use no shades, etc, to low lighting if you have trees outside your window and heavy drapes. More info would help us. Since I grow the cattleyas and their relatives I’ll tell you what I’d get, assuming you let a bit of sun in through the windows. For the most part the laelias and their subtribe (cattleyas, sophronitis, schomburgkias, brassavolas, encyclias, etc.) are plants that like lots of light thought the sophronitis does well in lower light. The large catts (which I prefer) take up lots of room so I’ll leave those out, as well as the easy to grow but sun loving mexican laelias. Here goes: + sophronitis (a genus) hybrids (but not the species), the artificial genus will be either Sc., Sl., Slc., etc; these are for the most part small, brightly colored plants that can bloom several times a year. Usually no fragrance, alas. The complex man made genus of ‘Potinara’ (which includes the sophronitis) opens up lots of possibilities for larger flowers but these can large or sun loving plants. + Cattleya Angelwalker hybrids: quite popular these days, these hybrids are compact and usually have wonderful fragrances. C. Angelwalker has been crossed to the larger standard catt hybrids to get compact plants with nicely shaped flowers. If you room is really sunny then that opens up the opportunity for many other cattleyas, laelias, etc. -dan
Response:
Hi, Cadillacwoman, You probably have trouble growing phas because most the plants that you say you are growing tolerate a great deal of light. Phals do not do well in my greenhouse either because I have a great deal of light — 65% shade cloth, but as you know light comes in from the sides this time of year, and I know some people use shade paint successfully; however, I usually keep the good phals inside as they are ideal houseplants. In addition, I think that phals are more prone to high light, snails and slugs, and too much water when grown in a greenhouse. . . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would classify what you have told us as "intermediate" meaning you can grow most things that do not want temperatures in the extremes. We have a greater temp. swing than you do. We get down to low 50’s in the gh. And on a sunny winter day can reach 80 easily. I probably have more light than you. So although I grow Ascacenda, Cattleya, Colmera, and other intergenerics like Wilsonara, Oncidium, Encyclia, Epidendrum, Brasavola, Dendrobium, Angraecum, Aerangis, and anything else except Miltonia. I would suggest you try what you like and what seems to like you. Phalaenopsis do not like me. Thank you for your advice! And I hope you have better luck with Phalenopsis. Here, they’re for sale everywhere–nurseries, a local grocery store, Home Depot–so I assumed they were the easiest orchids to grow. Evidently not the right conclusion. The tag on one of the Phalenopsis that I bought said NEVER to put it in direct sunlight. Maybe that’s the key.
Response:
I would classify what you have told us as "intermediate" meaning you can grow most things that do not want temperatures in the extremes. We have a greater temp. swing than you do. We get down to low 50’s in the gh. And on a sunny winter day can reach 80 easily. I probably have more light than you. So although I grow Ascacenda, Cattleya, Colmera, and other intergenerics like Wilsonara, Oncidium, Encyclia, Epidendrum, Brasavola, Dendrobium, Angraecum, Aerangis, and anything else except Miltonia. I would suggest you try what you like and what seems to like you. Phalaenopsis do not like me.
Thank you for your advice! And I hope you have better luck with Phalenopsis. Here, they’re for sale everywhere–nurseries, a local grocery store, Home Depot–so I assumed they were the easiest orchids to grow. Evidently not the right conclusion. The tag on one of the Phalenopsis that I bought said NEVER to put it in direct sunlight. Maybe that’s the key.
Response:
You should grow plants that are labeled "intermediate" in their temp needs which is generally defined as 60 to 80F. On the other hand, your plants will be happier if you get a small space heater on a timer to supplement heat at night. You just want to get it a few degrees up to about 63 to 65 as a low. Then you can grow all sorts of stuff like angraecums, epidendrums, encyclias, cattleyas and on and on. Anything labeled intermediate or warm would be happy in your conditions provided you can give them the necessary amount of light. RJ
I will get a heater! Because the sunroom is over the garage, there’s no other other way to boost the night temperature in the sunroom without cooking the rest of the house. Thank you for your advice!
Response:
In article – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – [snip] Before I race out and buy more plants, could anyone tell me if I’m on the right track? Thanks so much for any advice offered. Congratulations! You’ve asked THE question that will lead you to success. Finding orchids for your environment, vice trying to change your environment for some orchids, is the key to success. As others have said your temps look like ‘intermediate’; the question is your lighting. With all those windows you could have high light if you use no shades, etc, to low lighting if you have trees outside your window and heavy drapes. More info would help us.
The windows are unobstructed by draperies or outside shrubs. I have mini blinds on each window that I lower at night and during the day ONLY when it’s so bright or hot in the room and I can’t work. The length of the room runs pretty much east to west. Our house is built on a slope, so the room is at a one-and-a-half-story altitude. The east window is about 5′ x5′–it overlooks the swimming pool and has no obstuctions. The west window, also, 5′x 5′, overlooks the hillside–there’s a large maple tree in the west corner of the yard, about 40 feet away, that provides light afternoon shade on the west end of the room. The south side of the room, where there are two banks of windows, each about 7.5′ long and 5′ high, overlooks the neighbor’s two-story house, but the house is far enough away that the room still gets a LOT of light. All in all, the room gets very bright light all day, and some part of the room is usually in sunlight during each sunny day. However, the radiators at the east and west ends of the room get hot during winter, and I’d hesitate to put orchids above them. (Currently, I’ve got some amaryllis growing on a console table above the radiator in the west-facing window–they’re doing okay, but they’re as tough as cockroaches anyway.) Some orchid literature discusses measuring light in footcandles. To be honest, I’ve never seen a device that performs that measurement and am clueless about where to find one. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Since I grow the cattleyas and their relatives I’ll tell you what I’d get, assuming you let a bit of sun in through the windows. For the most part the laelias and their subtribe (cattleyas, sophronitis, schomburgkias, brassavolas, encyclias, etc.) are plants that like lots of light thought the sophronitis does well in lower light. The large catts (which I prefer) take up lots of room so I’ll leave those out, as well as the easy to grow but sun loving mexican laelias. Here goes: + sophronitis (a genus) hybrids (but not the species), the artificial genus will be either Sc., Sl., Slc., etc; these are for the most part small, brightly colored plants that can bloom several times a year. Usually no fragrance, alas. The complex man made genus of ‘Potinara’ (which includes the sophronitis) opens up lots of possibilities for larger flowers but these can large or sun loving plants. + Cattleya Angelwalker hybrids: quite popular these days, these hybrids are compact and usually have wonderful fragrances. C. Angelwalker has been crossed to the larger standard catt hybrids to get compact plants with nicely shaped flowers. If you room is really sunny then that opens up the opportunity for many other cattleyas, laelias, etc. -dan
Wow! These sound great!!! Thank you so much for the information. I’m printing out your list. I’m sure I can find them on the Web this spring (too cold here to ship now), or join the Massachusetts Orchid Society and meet local breeders (if there are any).
Response:
I bought an orchid on impulse, then another, and then another…. Then I figured that maybe it would be a good idea to know more about them. Now I have a book, "Home Orchid Growing" by Rebecca Norhern. I’ve read that different orchids have different cultural requirements, and I think that I should not try to grow one of everything, but instead should try to target a couple of genus. So, what orchids will do best in my environment? I’m in Zone 6, a suburb of Boston. My "orchid room" is a combination sunroom and office. The room is 20 feet long and 10-12 feet wide. The east, west, and south sides of the room consist mostly of windows. The room is over an unheated garage. There are large steam radiators at each end of the room. During winter, the humidity is usually 70 percent (from a combination of steam from radiators, all the other plants in the room, and a water fountain). Daytime temperature is usually 75 degrees but goes up to 80 degrees. (The radiators are too efficient here–this is the warmest room in the house.) At night, the temperature drops to 60 degrees–a low on the digital thermometer read 58 degrees on night. Boston summers are hot and humid, but we have central air and keep the indoor temperature at 75 degrees. Currently, I’m growing Dendrobium "Angel Smile" Kibi; Miltoniopsis "Red Tide"; Odontonia "Susan Bogdanow"; Phalenopsis "Happy Girl"; and a mystery Phalenopsis. They all look pretty happy, but then again, I probably haven’t had them long enough to kill them. The mystery Phalenopis looks tough, but it looked tough when I got it–I got it on sale from a retailer who knows less about orchids than I do, so I suspect it’s the victim of early maltreatment. I’m going out to buy a fan this weekend to incrase my air circulation, just in case that’s the problem. Based on my reading, I suspect the Dendrobium is not a good candidate for me, but that the Phalenopis and Miltonia are. Before I race out and buy more plants, could anyone tell me if I’m on the right track? Thanks so much for any advice offered.
Response:
You are probably on the best track I can imagine. Your level headedness is to be complimented. Most folks, myself included, went out and bought then wonderd why they died…then bought a book, LOL!!! I agree with RJ that intermediate orchids are for you. K Barrett – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I bought an orchid on impulse, then another, and then another…. Then I figured that maybe it would be a good idea to know more about them. Now I have a book, "Home Orchid Growing" by Rebecca Norhern. I’ve read that different orchids have different cultural requirements, and I think that I should not try to grow one of everything, but instead should try to target a couple of genus. So, what orchids will do best in my environment? I’m in Zone 6, a suburb of Boston. My "orchid room" is a combination sunroom and office. The room is 20 feet long and 10-12 feet wide. The east, west, and south sides of the room consist mostly of windows. The room is over an unheated garage. There are large steam radiators at each end of the room. During winter, the humidity is usually 70 percent (from a combination of steam from radiators, all the other plants in the room, and a water fountain). Daytime temperature is usually 75 degrees but goes up to 80 degrees. (The radiators are too efficient here–this is the warmest room in the house.) At night, the temperature drops to 60 degrees–a low on the digital thermometer read 58 degrees on night. Boston summers are hot and humid, but we have central air and keep the indoor temperature at 75 degrees. Currently, I’m growing Dendrobium "Angel Smile" Kibi; Miltoniopsis "Red Tide"; Odontonia "Susan Bogdanow"; Phalenopsis "Happy Girl"; and a mystery Phalenopsis. They all look pretty happy, but then again, I probably haven’t had them long enough to kill them. The mystery Phalenopis looks tough, but it looked tough when I got it–I got it on sale from a retailer who knows less about orchids than I do, so I suspect it’s the victim of early maltreatment. I’m going out to buy a fan this weekend to incrase my air circulation, just in case that’s the problem. Based on my reading, I suspect the Dendrobium is not a good candidate for me, but that the Phalenopis and Miltonia are. Before I race out and buy more plants, could anyone tell me if I’m on the right track? Thanks so much for any advice offered.
Response:
You should grow plants that are labeled "intermediate" in their temp needs which is generally defined as 60 to 80F. On the other hand, your plants will be happier if you get a small space heater on a timer to supplement heat at night. You just want to get it a few degrees up to about 63 to 65 as a low. Then you can grow all sorts of stuff like angraecums, epidendrums, encyclias, cattleyas and on and on. Anything labeled intermediate or warm would be happy in your conditions provided you can give them the necessary amount of light. RJ
Response:
Question:
How do you know which ones are noble? Is there a list somewhere? or do they have certain characteristics er sumpin? Emily
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The noble type rest in the winter.
Response:
How do you know which ones are noble? Is there a list somewhere? or do they have certain characteristics er sumpin?
I thinks y’gots t’be born inta the right fambly…. ;^) … jim [prolly mean "nobile"] — jmedgar3(at)earthlink(dot)net Orchid Pix & such: http://home.earthlink.net/~jmedgar3/OrchidMain.html
Response:
Close enough What makes ‘em nobile?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How do you know which ones are noble? Is there a list somewhere? or do they have certain characteristics er sumpin? I thinks y’gots t’be born inta the right fambly…. ;^) … jim [prolly mean "nobile"]
Response:
Close enough What makes ‘em nobile?
Sorry not to respond right away – big project underway… Here’s a good site with Nomenclature Info: Brisbane Orchid Society – http://www.users.bigpond.com/gmcorbin/bos/nomencl.html Hope that helps! — jim — jmedgar3(at)earthlink(dot)net Orchid Pix & such: http://home.earthlink.net/~jmedgar3/OrchidMain.html
Response:
That is a very good site. Thanks Jim. SuE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Close enough What makes ‘em nobile? Sorry not to respond right away – big project underway… Here’s a good site with Nomenclature Info: Brisbane Orchid Society – http://www.users.bigpond.com/gmcorbin/bos/nomencl.html Hope that helps! — jim — jmedgar3(at)earthlink(dot)net Orchid Pix & such: http://home.earthlink.net/~jmedgar3/OrchidMain.html
Response:
Excuse me, but does anyone have an answer for me here? I am overjoyed that this brought such discussion to the list, but… : — Reka www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "I hate flowers-I paint them because they’re cheaper than models and they don’t move." –Georgia O’Keeffe -) That is a very good site. Thanks Jim. SuE
/OrchidMain.html
Response:
You have stumped us. Sorry. SuE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Excuse me, but does anyone have an answer for me here? I am overjoyed that this brought such discussion to the list, but… : — Reka www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "I hate flowers-I paint them because they’re cheaper than models and they don’t move." –Georgia O’Keeffe -) That is a very good site. Thanks Jim. SuE /OrchidMain.html
Response:
Den. loddigesii needs a fairly dry rest in winter to insure flowering in the spring, easy grower. Cheers Wendy
: I would really like to have a few Dens, since certain ones appeal to me. I : have a Den or two, mostly divisions of Den phals, plus a kingianum. I like : the looks of spectabile or loddigesi or thyrsiflorum or a Cassiope : (moniliforme x nobile). Which would be good for me to start with and would : do well in a Phal or Catt environment? Light is no problem in summer, : winter is a bit more of a problem. And which need a winter rest? : : — : Reka : : www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html : : "I hate flowers-I paint them because they’re : cheaper than models and they don’t move." : –Georgia O’Keeffe : :
Response:
Loddesgii needs a cool, dry rest in the winter; just like an apple tree it needs so many hours of temps below 50F. A few hours of morning sun does it nicely in my greenhouse. It seems to prefer brighter light in the winter, less in the summer. It has been an easy plant for me. If you have warm conditions then spectable is a nice easy choice, but it get quite large, too big for me! Good growing, JW – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The noble type rest in the winter. I would really like to have a few Dens, since certain ones appeal to me. I have a Den or two, mostly divisions of Den phals, plus a kingianum. I like the looks of spectabile or loddigesi or thyrsiflorum or a Cassiope (moniliforme x nobile). Which would be good for me to start with and would do well in a Phal or Catt environment? Light is no problem in summer, winter is a bit more of a problem. And which need a winter rest? — Reka www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "I hate flowers-I paint them because they’re cheaper than models and they don’t move." –Georgia O’Keeffe
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Response:
Sorry, I should have said Den phal hybrids! — Reka www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "I hate flowers-I paint them because they’re cheaper than models and they don’t move." –Georgia O’Keeffe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Reka, When you say that you have Den. phal are you talking about the Dendrobium bigibbum ( Cooktown Orchid ) or is it another type???
Response:
The noble type rest in the winter. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would really like to have a few Dens, since certain ones appeal to me. I have a Den or two, mostly divisions of Den phals, plus a kingianum. I like the looks of spectabile or loddigesi or thyrsiflorum or a Cassiope (moniliforme x nobile). Which would be good for me to start with and would do well in a Phal or Catt environment? Light is no problem in summer, winter is a bit more of a problem. And which need a winter rest? — Reka www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "I hate flowers-I paint them because they’re cheaper than models and they don’t move." –Georgia O’Keeffe
Response:
: I would really like to have a few Dens, since certain ones appeal to me. I : have a Den or two, mostly divisions of Den phals, plus a kingianum. I like : the looks of spectabile or loddigesi or thyrsiflorum or a Cassiope : (moniliforme x nobile). Which would be good for me to start with and would : do well in a Phal or Catt environment? Light is no problem in summer, : winter is a bit more of a problem. And which need a winter rest? I have a thyrsiflorum that I just bought this summer and is ready to go thru its cooling period. The vendor told to put it in the garage for six weeks and bring it back in (I’m in Northern California). One of the books I have says it needs light and 50F temps though. My garage doesn’t get a lot of light. Is that going to be a problem? Does the vendor’s advice seem sound? Dave Sheehy
Response:
I would really like to have a few Dens, since certain ones appeal to me. I have a Den or two, mostly divisions of Den phals, plus a kingianum. I like the looks of spectabile or loddigesi or thyrsiflorum or a Cassiope (moniliforme x nobile). Which would be good for me to start with and would do well in a Phal or Catt environment? Light is no problem in summer, winter is a bit more of a problem. And which need a winter rest? — Reka www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "I hate flowers-I paint them because they’re cheaper than models and they don’t move." –Georgia O’Keeffe
Response:
Reka, When you say that you have Den. phal are you talking about the Dendrobium bigibbum ( Cooktown Orchid ) or is it another type??? Kye. — The Orchid Index. An Orchid Encyclopaedia Under Progress http://orchidindex.whitehavens.com/index.html ( Soon to be located at www.orchidindex.com )
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would really like to have a few Dens, since certain ones appeal to me. I have a Den or two, mostly divisions of Den phals, plus a kingianum. I like the looks of spectabile or loddigesi or thyrsiflorum or a Cassiope (moniliforme x nobile). Which would be good for me to start with and would do well in a Phal or Catt environment? Light is no problem in summer, winter is a bit more of a problem. And which need a winter rest? — Reka www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "I hate flowers-I paint them because they’re cheaper than models and they don’t move." –Georgia O’Keeffe
Response:
Question:
Matt, Please explain the detrements of fruit. I have not a clue. . . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would keep it in the basement under lights using a bloom booster. Try not to turn the plant around as the spike will grow towards the light or you’ll end up with a spike with twists and turns. Continue to fertilize with the bloom booster and keep it in the basement until you see the first flower open then put it in the house to enjoy. If the spike gets to tall to be grown under the lights, then take it upstairs. To prevent bud and flower drop – Keep it out of the sun Keep it away from drafts Keep it away from fruit Keep it away from cardboard Keep it away from pencils OK, ignore the last two but do keep it as humid and cool, not cold as possible. Matthew Swift Swift’s Orchids www.swiftsorchids.com My Phal has just started to grow a new spike and I need some suggestions for seeing it prosper into full bloom. Right now it is on an unheated enclosed porch in NJ (Zone 6). I will move it from the porch once the temperature goes below 50 degrees F for more than a few hours. Which is best? 1. Inside the house (65F – 71F). I can put it in a West facing window – my Dendrobium Appolon loves it there. 2. In the basement under six 40W flourescent lamps. (62F – 70F) This is within 10 feet of my gas furnace. My African Violets love it there. I’m assuming that I’m supposed to keep it watered, but to withold fertilizer while it is developing and hopefully blooming. Thanks, Anne
Response:
Thanks for all the info. Temperature is dropping here, so I’ll set up the basement lights and move the spiking plant down there until the buds form. Then it’s upstairs away from the furnace, boiler, and dryer. Anne – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– | Ethylene gas is the gas that ripens fruit. Apples in particular | produce the gas as they ripen. Which is why "ripening bowls" work | so well. They keep the gas concentrations higher around the green | fruit and help it ripen. The gas also ripens flowers… read | speeds the aging process. | | SuE | | | | Matt, | | Please explain the detrements of fruit. I have not a clue. | | . . . Pam | Everything Orchid Management System | http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html | | | I would keep it in the basement under lights using a bloom booster. Try not | to turn the plant around as the spike will grow towards the light or you’ll | end up with a spike with twists and turns. Continue to fertilize with the | bloom booster and keep it in the basement until you see the first flower | open then put it in the house to enjoy. If the spike gets to tall to be | grown under the lights, then take it upstairs. To prevent bud and flower | drop – | | Keep it out of the sun | Keep it away from drafts | Keep it away from fruit | Keep it away from cardboard | Keep it away from pencils | | OK, ignore the last two but do keep it as humid and cool, not cold as | possible. | | Matthew Swift | Swift’s Orchids | www.swiftsorchids.com | My Phal has just started to grow a new spike and I need some suggestions | for | seeing it prosper into full bloom. Right now it is on an unheated | enclosed | porch in NJ (Zone 6). I will move it from the porch once the temperature | goes below 50 degrees F for more than a few hours. Which is best? | 1. Inside the house (65F – 71F). I can put it in a West facing window – | my | Dendrobium Appolon loves it there. | 2. In the basement under six 40W flourescent lamps. (62F – 70F) This is | within 10 feet of my gas furnace. My African Violets love it there. | | I’m assuming that I’m supposed to keep it watered, but to withold | fertilizer | while it is developing and hopefully blooming. | | Thanks, | Anne | |
Response:
Ethylene gas is the gas that ripens fruit. Apples in particular produce the gas as they ripen. Which is why "ripening bowls" work so well. They keep the gas concentrations higher around the green fruit and help it ripen. The gas also ripens flowers… read speeds the aging process. SuE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Matt, Please explain the detrements of fruit. I have not a clue. . . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html I would keep it in the basement under lights using a bloom booster. Try not to turn the plant around as the spike will grow towards the light or you’ll end up with a spike with twists and turns. Continue to fertilize with the bloom booster and keep it in the basement until you see the first flower open then put it in the house to enjoy. If the spike gets to tall to be grown under the lights, then take it upstairs. To prevent bud and flower drop – Keep it out of the sun Keep it away from drafts Keep it away from fruit Keep it away from cardboard Keep it away from pencils OK, ignore the last two but do keep it as humid and cool, not cold as possible. Matthew Swift Swift’s Orchids www.swiftsorchids.com My Phal has just started to grow a new spike and I need some suggestions for seeing it prosper into full bloom. Right now it is on an unheated enclosed porch in NJ (Zone 6). I will move it from the porch once the temperature goes below 50 degrees F for more than a few hours. Which is best? 1. Inside the house (65F – 71F). I can put it in a West facing window – my Dendrobium Appolon loves it there. 2. In the basement under six 40W flourescent lamps. (62F – 70F) This is within 10 feet of my gas furnace. My African Violets love it there. I’m assuming that I’m supposed to keep it watered, but to withold fertilizer while it is developing and hopefully blooming. Thanks, Anne
Response:
I would keep it in the basement under lights using a bloom booster. Try not to turn the plant around as the spike will grow towards the light or you’ll end up with a spike with twists and turns. Continue to fertilize with the bloom booster and keep it in the basement until you see the first flower open then put it in the house to enjoy. If the spike gets to tall to be grown under the lights, then take it upstairs. To prevent bud and flower drop – Keep it out of the sun Keep it away from drafts Keep it away from fruit Keep it away from cardboard Keep it away from pencils OK, ignore the last two but do keep it as humid and cool, not cold as possible. Matthew Swift Swift’s Orchids www.swiftsorchids.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My Phal has just started to grow a new spike and I need some suggestions for seeing it prosper into full bloom. Right now it is on an unheated enclosed porch in NJ (Zone 6). I will move it from the porch once the temperature goes below 50 degrees F for more than a few hours. Which is best? 1. Inside the house (65F – 71F). I can put it in a West facing window – my Dendrobium Appolon loves it there. 2. In the basement under six 40W flourescent lamps. (62F – 70F) This is within 10 feet of my gas furnace. My African Violets love it there. I’m assuming that I’m supposed to keep it watered, but to withold fertilizer while it is developing and hopefully blooming. Thanks, Anne
Response:
I continue to fertilize mine, with bloom booster, while the spike is developing. As for preventing bud blast, better minds than mine can answer that–but I noticed that moving the plant to different locations while in bud seemed to promote problems. happy blooming! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -My Phal has just started to grow a new spike and I need some suggestions for seeing it prosper into full bloom. Right now it is on an unheated enclosed porch in NJ (Zone 6). I will move it from the porch once the temperature goes below 50 degrees F for more than a few hours. Which is best? 1. Inside the house (65F – 71F). I can put it in a West facing window – my Dendrobium Appolon loves it there. 2. In the basement under six 40W flourescent lamps. (62F – 70F) This is within 10 feet of my gas furnace. My African Violets love it there. I’m assuming that I’m supposed to keep it watered, but to withold fertilizer while it is developing and hopefully blooming. Thanks, Anne
–Alynne http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Jungle/2947
Response:
Well that negates option #3 I was considering – leave on sunporch during the day and move to kitchen when the sun goes down. Anne
| I continue to fertilize mine, with bloom booster, while the spike is | developing. As for preventing bud blast, better minds than mine can | answer that–but I noticed that moving the plant to different | locations while in bud seemed to promote problems. | happy blooming!
| | My Phal has just started to grow a new spike and I need some suggestions for | seeing it prosper into full bloom. Right now it is on an unheated enclosed | porch in NJ (Zone 6). I will move it from the porch once the temperature | goes below 50 degrees F for more than a few hours. Which is best? | 1. Inside the house (65F – 71F). I can put it in a West facing window – my | Dendrobium Appolon loves it there. | 2. In the basement under six 40W flourescent lamps. (62F – 70F) This is | within 10 feet of my gas furnace. My African Violets love it there. | | I’m assuming that I’m supposed to keep it watered, but to withold fertilizer | while it is developing and hopefully blooming. | | Thanks, | Anne | | | | –Alynne | http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Jungle/2947 |
Response:
My Phal has just started to grow a new spike and I need some suggestions for seeing it prosper into full bloom. Right now it is on an unheated enclosed porch in NJ (Zone 6). I will move it from the porch once the temperature goes below 50 degrees F for more than a few hours. Which is best? 1. Inside the house (65F – 71F). I can put it in a West facing window – my Dendrobium Appolon loves it there. 2. In the basement under six 40W flourescent lamps. (62F – 70F) This is within 10 feet of my gas furnace. My African Violets love it there. I’m assuming that I’m supposed to keep it watered, but to withold fertilizer while it is developing and hopefully blooming. Thanks, Anne
Response:
Question:
When you open a thumbnail and then back button to the original page it would be nice to actually come back to the actual point on the page rather than somewhere else.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Since you mentioned Jay’s site. I would like to go not just to the D page but to the top of the Dendrobium list. I often can not get to something that is near the bottom of the page. It will not load the first time I visit the page, Sometimes even a long wait (with DSL) will not aid it in completing the load so that groups are lost between pages. If you do put together l-o-n-g pages, put anchors in the middle so we can jump down. It is hard to scroll and read at the same time. I love the way Andy’s indexes and shows the plants in thumbnails, with a short grow style code. Quiet backgrounds, after all a background should not take the attention from the pictures or words. Good contrast between text and background. buttons that do not flash, jump or run around. Data. Information. Thumbnails that when clicked on open as full sized pictures so I can check the detail if I want. But Then again, I just love this whole media. SuE Ok everybody. I think that we covered the topic of what people do not like faily well, so now I would like to ask what people do like about sites. Kye. P.S. In case you are wondering why all the questions, I am a web developer of several years experience and I have decided to turn my hand to the creation of an orchid web-site somewhat similar to Jay’s site. So I would like to know what people would rather I avoided and what features they would like to see.
Response:
I love thumbnails. Jay’s would be much better with thumbnails of the orchids so you don’t have to click on every name when trying to ID something. Twice as much work I know but…
The workload is not too bad. Considering I am hand-coding a factsheet for EVERY sepecies of named orchid, and hybridisation lists for those who like to hybridize. But I will see what I can do…. Kye.
Response:
Since you mentioned Jay’s site. I would like to go not just to the D page but to the top of the Dendrobium list. I often can not get to something that is near the bottom of the page. It will not load the first time I visit the page, Sometimes even a long wait (with DSL) will not aid it in completing the load so that groups are lost between pages. If you do put together l-o-n-g pages, put anchors in the middle so we can jump down. It is hard to scroll and read at the same time. I love the way Andy’s indexes and shows the plants in thumbnails, with a short grow style code. Quiet backgrounds, after all a background should not take the attention from the pictures or words. Good contrast between text and background. buttons that do not flash, jump or run around. Data. Information. Thumbnails that when clicked on open as full sized pictures so I can check the detail if I want. But Then again, I just love this whole media. SuE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok everybody. I think that we covered the topic of what people do not like faily well, so now I would like to ask what people do like about sites. Kye. P.S. In case you are wondering why all the questions, I am a web developer of several years experience and I have decided to turn my hand to the creation of an orchid web-site somewhat similar to Jay’s site. So I would like to know what people would rather I avoided and what features they would like to see.
Response:
Ok everybody. I think that we covered the topic of what people do not like faily well, so now I would like to ask what people do like about sites. Kye. P.S. In case you are wondering why all the questions, I am a web developer of several years experience and I have decided to turn my hand to the creation of an orchid web-site somewhat similar to Jay’s site. So I would like to know what people would rather I avoided and what features they would like to see.
Response:
I love thumbnails. Jay’s would be much better with thumbnails of the orchids so you don’t have to click on every name when trying to ID something. Twice as much work I know but…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok everybody. I think that we covered the topic of what people do not like faily well, so now I would like to ask what people do like about sites. Kye. P.S. In case you are wondering why all the questions, I am a web developer of several years experience and I have decided to turn my hand to the creation of an orchid web-site somewhat similar to Jay’s site. So I would like to know what people would rather I avoided and what features they would like to see.
Response:
I would love to see a "joke of the day" whenever one visits a site. Just me again in my endless quest for amusement. Tickle my funny bone and maybe it will jangle my wallet. A little laughter goes a long way. Stephen
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok everybody. I think that we covered the topic of what people do not like faily well, so now I would like to ask what people do like about sites. Kye. P.S. In case you are wondering why all the questions, I am a web developer of several years experience and I have decided to turn my hand to the creation of an orchid web-site somewhat similar to Jay’s site. So I would like to know what people would rather I avoided and what features they would like to see.
Response:
I would love to see a "joke of the day" whenever one visits a site. Just me again in my endless quest for amusement. Tickle my funny bone and maybe it will jangle my wallet. A little laughter goes a long way. Stephen
Done… though this site is not a commercial one. I will tickle the funny bone to get you to come back. Kye.
Response:
Question:
How about that Sue!!! *grin* We both found the same site & posted at exactly the same time. Nice picture. Cheers Wendy
: www.trentdesigns.com/elizabeth/flowers/orchids/orchid.html : This is the only one the Google pulled up. : SuE :
: : Hi : : I’m trying to bring back to life the Inagaki for a friend. She saw a : bloom three years ago. Does anyone know where I might see a pic? : : Thanks : : Mike
Response:
Well looks like I’m changing search engine sites. Thanks Oh, when a Dendrobium is a hybrid, what temp, H20, and light intensity should I aim for? Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How about that Sue!!! *grin* We both found the same site & posted at exactly the same time. Nice picture. Cheers Wendy : www.trentdesigns.com/elizabeth/flowers/orchids/orchid.html : This is the only one the Google pulled up. : SuE : : : Hi : : I’m trying to bring back to life the Inagaki for a friend. She saw a : bloom three years ago. Does anyone know where I might see a pic? : : Thanks : : Mike
Response:
Mike, look at http://www.xs4all.nl/~nedfern/photo/tha/novel/0dinagp.htm too. It looks entirely different there. Reka P.S. I use Google mostly, too. It is the best, along with Copernic. Mike schrieb: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m trying to bring back to life the Inagaki for a friend. She saw a bloom three years ago. Does anyone know where I might see a pic?
Response:
THAT’S not an easy question, as there are SO many different types of dendrobiums that require SUCH different culture, that one description doesn’t cover all hybrids. Based upon the photo, it look like it has a fair amount of Den.phalaenopsis in it, so I’d treat it like oncidiums – bright, warm, and lots of food and water when in active growth. Also, unless its been registered since mid-August, Inagaki Pink isn’t, so I couldn’t look up the background…. — Ray Barkalow < First Rays Orchids http://www.firstrays.com Secure Online Ordering & Lots of Free Info!
Response:
If this is a Den. from Thailand as this pictures suggests, it may never be registered. Some growers there fear duplication by others. They will not register so that the actual cross is not made public. This is a beautiful picture. SuE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mike, look at http://www.xs4all.nl/~nedfern/photo/tha/novel/0dinagp.htm too. It looks entirely different there. Reka P.S. I use Google mostly, too. It is the best, along with Copernic. Mike schrieb: I’m trying to bring back to life the Inagaki for a friend. She saw a bloom three years ago. Does anyone know where I might see a pic?
Response:
Thanks everyone. I’m amused to see that the ‘games’ of how and why are no different in orchid keeping as in Discus keeping, ie example of the developement of the turquoise discus and other ornamental colors. Thanks again Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If this is a Den. from Thailand as this pictures suggests, it may never be registered. Some growers there fear duplication by others. They will not register so that the actual cross is not made public. This is a beautiful picture. SuE Mike, look at http://www.xs4all.nl/~nedfern/photo/tha/novel/0dinagp.htm too. It looks entirely different there. Reka P.S. I use Google mostly, too. It is the best, along with Copernic. Mike schrieb: I’m trying to bring back to life the Inagaki for a friend. She saw a bloom three years ago. Does anyone know where I might see a pic?
Response:
Hi I’m trying to bring back to life the Inagaki for a friend. She saw a bloom three years ago. Does anyone know where I might see a pic? Thanks Mike
Response:
www.trentdesigns.com/elizabeth/flowers/orchids/orchid.html This is the only one the Google pulled up. SuE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi I’m trying to bring back to life the Inagaki for a friend. She saw a bloom three years ago. Does anyone know where I might see a pic? Thanks Mike
Response:
Hi Mike, I found this page in my search. The only one? Cheers Wendy http://www.trentdesigns.com/elizabeth/flowers/orchids/orchid.html
: Hi : : I’m trying to bring back to life the Inagaki for a friend. She saw a : bloom three years ago. Does anyone know where I might see a pic? : : Thanks : : Mike :
Response:
Question:
I repotted all of mine when I put them into the greenhouse, because I needed to get rid of the mealybugs. It worked! Finally I’m not seeing new pests every week. However I used pots that were somewhat too large, didn’t have enough smaller sizes. Now most of them are putting out new roots. I’m wondering, will it be best if I repot them again into appropriate size pots before they attach themselves, or shall I leave well enough alone? I know they like to be root bound, and it will be quite a while before that will happen in these 4" pots. You more experienced growers have been so generous with your knowledge, I salute and thank you all. sandra
Response:
However I used pots that were somewhat too large, didn’t have enough smaller sizes. Now most of them are putting out new roots. I’m wondering, will it be best if I repot them again
good idea, yes, Alynne South Fla. Zone 10
Response:
I repotted all of mine when I put them into the greenhouse, because I needed to get rid of the mealybugs. It worked! Finally I’m not seeing new pests every week. However I used pots that were somewhat too large, didn’t have enough smaller sizes. Now most of them are putting out new roots. I’m wondering, will it be best if I repot them again into appropriate size pots before they attach themselves, or shall I leave well enough alone? I know they like to be root bound, and it will be quite a while before that will happen in these 4" pots. You more experienced growers have been so generous with your knowledge, I salute and thank you all. sandra
Sandra, sometimes if all I have is a pot that is too big, I just put a very small pot upside down inside the large pot then plant away. Theresa
Response:
Pagem, Do you have a south window the plant can sit in? I’m guessing that your Den needs a lot more hours of light than it’s getting. -Rod- This is my first time in a newsgroup and I’ve been reading your articles to get the hang of this. I truly am a beginner to orchids and I feel like I am killing my poor little den before it gets started.
Rod C. Venger – T4N0M0 Squamous Cell Carcinoma Facial Reconstructions 2-5-99, 3-13-00 http://www.vengers.com/model.jpg
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Pagem, Do you have a south window the plant can sit in? I’m guessing that your Den needs a lot more hours of light than it’s getting. -Rod- This is my first time in a newsgroup and I’ve been reading your articles to get the hang of this. I truly am a beginner to orchids and I feel like I am killing my poor little den before it gets started. Rod C. Venger – T4N0M0 Squamous Cell Carcinoma Facial Reconstructions 2-5-99, 3-13-00 http://www.vengers.com/model.jpg
I was having a similar problem with my dendrobium (nearly two years without blooms). I put it out on my deck this summer (zone 6), and it bloomed like crazy! It had 2 hours of direct sunlight each morning. I thought that would be too much, but obviously it loved it. I’m sorry, but it had no identifier tag when I purchased it. My next quandary is how long to leave it outside? The nights have been getting down to 50-55 degrees. I have my phals out there now too- I heard somewhere that the cool weather might stimulate blooms…? Thanks Erin
Response:
My next quandary is how long to leave it outside? The nights have been getting down to 50-55 degrees. I have my phals out there now too- I heard somewhere that the cool weather might stimulate blooms…? Thanks Erin
Erin, Since Phal season is coming up, the cool temps are probably a good thing yeah. But keep a close eye on those temps. I wouldn’t feel comfortable with them outside in temps under 50. Feel the leaves daily. Watch for any change in the turgidity of the leaves. Bring them in if they show any signs of softening. -Rod- Rod C. Venger – T4N0M0 Squamous Cell Carcinoma Facial Reconstructions 2-5-99, 3-13-00 http://www.vengers.com/model.jpg
Response:
Pagem3 – You wrote you have owned the plant 2 years (come November). When you purchased it in bloom, it continued for 3 months. SO: 1/ it skipped a year. I agree with Jim.. probably not enough light. The change in conditions from a growers greenhouse to home windowsill care could be enough to have put it off blooming last year. 2/ This years bloom on a Den. might not be visible this far in advance of a November bloom. 3/ The new growth – is yet undefined. Is it from the top of the plant or from the base? Could it be early signs of a bloom spike or could it be early signs of a new growth (cane)? We need more information. If you have given it sufficient light this year it could still bloom. The time to be concerned about this years lack of blooms is New Years. You need to give it sufficient time to be blooming and even be late starting to bloom. Remember this plant only blooms once a year normally. …. Actually do you have a name for this Dendrobium? There are some that have very specific requirements to initiate blooming. SuE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is my first time in a newsgroup and I’ve been reading your articles to get the hang of this. I truly am a beginner to orchids and I feel like I am killing my poor little den before it gets started. I’ve had one for almost 2 years (this November) and it was flowering beautifully for 3 months. Spent a lot of time surfing the net and reading in the library about what to do with it when it stops blooming. Very confusing information. I have it in a east window which is covered with sheers so the sunlight comes through in the morning. It is resting on a humidity tray with just enough water to keep it damp (not touching the pot). I was feeding it very litely once a week with 20-20-20. It has a new large spike but no flowers. It has never flowered again! I tried cutting out the fertilizer, I tried putting it out in springtime to make the air temperature cooler, I tried watering it every week and a half to 2 weeks (I couldn’t stand that!) so that it thought it was starving – but none of that worked. Can anyone suggest something else? – De-pot and check roots. – Repot if necessary. – More light. ?’s : Is it a new spike, or a new cane growth? What time of year did it last flower? "feeding it very litely" means regular amount of water with half-strength fertilizer? Or what? Other: I would keep feeding regularly. I’ve switched all my fertilizer over to Dyna-Gro ( http://www.dyna-gro.com/ ) and have had stronger and happier looking plants as a result (well, combined with good advice and a reduction in my own mistakes…) I run it about half strength and feed weekly. Dendrobiums generally need a pretty good dose of light to make them happy. Right now, mine is at the top of my outdoor rack (under shade cloth) and getting almost half a day. If you are using an east facing window, you might try a little less filtration on the sun’s rays, especially if you have treated glass of some kind or another. Keep us informed… — Jim — jmedgar3(at)earthlink(dot)net Orchid Pix & such: http://home.earthlink.net/~jmedgar3/OrchidMain.html
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is my first time in a newsgroup and I’ve been reading your articles to get the hang of this. I truly am a beginner to orchids and I feel like I am killing my poor little den before it gets started. I’ve had one for almost 2 years (this November) and it was flowering beautifully for 3 months. Spent a lot of time surfing the net and reading in the library about what to do with it when it stops blooming. Very confusing information. I have it in a east window which is covered with sheers so the sunlight comes through in the morning. It is resting on a humidity tray with just enough water to keep it damp (not touching the pot). I was feeding it very litely once a week with 20-20-20. It has a new large spike but no flowers. It has never flowered again! I tried cutting out the fertilizer, I tried putting it out in springtime to make the air temperature cooler, I tried watering it every week and a half to 2 weeks (I couldn’t stand that!) so that it thought it was starving – but none of that worked. Can anyone suggest something else?
- De-pot and check roots. – Repot if necessary. – More light. ?’s : Is it a new spike, or a new cane growth? What time of year did it last flower? "feeding it very litely" means regular amount of water with half-strength fertilizer? Or what? Other: I would keep feeding regularly. I’ve switched all my fertilizer over to Dyna-Gro ( http://www.dyna-gro.com/ ) and have had stronger and happier looking plants as a result (well, combined with good advice and a reduction in my own mistakes…) I run it about half strength and feed weekly. Dendrobiums generally need a pretty good dose of light to make them happy. Right now, mine is at the top of my outdoor rack (under shade cloth) and getting almost half a day. If you are using an east facing window, you might try a little less filtration on the sun’s rays, especially if you have treated glass of some kind or another. Keep us informed… — Jim — jmedgar3(at)earthlink(dot)net Orchid Pix & such: http://home.earthlink.net/~jmedgar3/OrchidMain.html
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This is my first time in a newsgroup and I’ve been reading your articles to get the hang of this. I truly am a beginner to orchids and I feel like I am killing my poor little den before it gets started. I’ve had one for almost 2 years (this November) and it was flowering beautifully for 3 months. Spent a lot of time surfing the net and reading in the library about what to do with it when it stops blooming. Very confusing information. I have it in a east window which is covered with sheers so the sunlight comes through in the morning. It is resting on a humidity tray with just enough water to keep it damp (not touching the pot). I was feeding it very litely once a week with 20-20-20. It has a new large spike but no flowers. It has never flowered again! I tried cutting out the fertilizer, I tried putting it out in springtime to make the air temperature cooler, I tried watering it every week and a half to 2 weeks (I couldn’t stand that!) so that it thought it was starving – but none of that worked. Can anyone suggest something else? pagem3
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Question:
Hi, I am a tropical orchid grower in Singapore( specialising mainly in Dendrobium, Mokara, Aranthera, Aranda ). I would like to engage in a wholesaler business. Anyone interested can leave me a msg or contact me SilverElf
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I would like to thank those who have emailed me. I would give the pricing and offerings as soon as possible. Thank you SilverElf
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I am a tropical orchid grower in Singapore( specialising mainly in Dendrobium, Mokara, Aranthera, Aranda ). I would like to engage in a wholesaler business. Anyone interested can leave me a msg or contact me SilverElf
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Question:
the best legends don’t know that’s what they are.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You can certainly tell it is something he enjoys.. He made mention that they will probably find him dead in one of the isles. Sounds like it would be fitting, heaven forbid that time comes. He looks really good…..and has a lot to keep him busy, so those people tend to live the longest. I wasn’t aware I was talking to such a legend…. he is such a down to earth sort of guy. Crystal — The ‘older gentleman’ was Frank Fordyce. He loves to talk about orchids and answer questions, so don’t ever fear talking with him. You are not taking up his time. He’s kind of like the pixies, when he wants to be seen, he’s seen, when he wants to be scarce, he’s scarce. I have not talked to Mr. Fordyce (I always think of him as such since I was about 16 when we met) in many years, but I remember him very fondly and am glad to know he is alive and well doing what he loves best. He is both a great orchidist and a great human being. A rare treasure indeed! Thanks for the story Tom.
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You can certainly tell it is something he enjoys.. He made mention that they will probably find him dead in one of the isles. Sounds like it would be fitting, heaven forbid that time comes. He looks really good…..and has a lot to keep him busy, so those people tend to live the longest. I wasn’t aware I was talking to such a legend…. he is such a down to earth sort of guy. Crystal —
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The ‘older gentleman’ was Frank Fordyce. He loves to talk about orchids and answer questions, so don’t ever fear talking with him. You are not taking up his time. He’s kind of like the pixies, when he wants to be seen, he’s seen, when he wants to be scarce, he’s scarce. I have not talked to Mr. Fordyce (I always think of him as such since I was about 16 when we met) in many years, but I remember him very fondly and am glad to know he is alive and well doing what he loves best. He is both a great orchidist and a great human being. A rare treasure indeed! Thanks for the story Tom.
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And, if you couldn’t tell from my post Connie.. Fordyce seems to be more willing to sell orchids. Someday I will have to make it over to the other side of town, and check out the place by the labs… but with the orchid ranch just being less then a mile from me, makes it hard to get over there. Crystal —
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Information obtained at http://orchidweb.org/marketplace.html Fordyce Orchids Frank and Madge Fordyce 1330 Isabel Ave. Livermore, CA 94550 Phone/Fax: 925-447-1659 Website at http://www.fordyceorchids.com 1. Tuesday-Saturday, 10 am-5 pm; Sunday, 1 pm-5 pm; closed Monday 2. Retail 3. Catalog available, no charge 4. Cattleya 5. Orchids/Supplies 6. Hwy. 580 to Portola turnoff, right on Murrieta, right on Stanley, left on Isabel Orchids Orinda Helen and Maynard Michel 1330 Isabel Ave. Livermore, CA 94550-9239 Tel (510) 447-7171 1. Tuesday-Sunday, 10 am-5 pm 2. Wholesale/Retail 4. Phalaenopsis; some other warm growers 5. Orchids/Supplies 6. 45 minutes southeast of San Francisco, near I-580/I-680 intersection 7. No export Tonkin’s Orchids, Inc. Valerie Tonkin 1330 Isabel Ave. Livermore, CA 94550 Mailing address: 119 St. Albans Rd. Kensington, CA 94708 Tel (510) 447-7171 Tel (510) 526-1371 (Kensington location) 1. Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 10 am-5 pm; other days by appointment 2. Wholesale/Retail 3. Catalog available, no charge 4. Paphiopedilum 5. Orchids 6. 45 minutes east of San Francisco Bay, Hwy. 580 toward Stockton Hi Crystal, There are greenhouses in Livermore? I had no Idea! I know they have golf coureses though, so I’ll have to spend a day out there real soon. Please, tell us where this place is so that we may find it easily. Thanks "Connie"
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San Diego Zoo 2920 Zoo Dr., San Diego, CA 92112-1515 Tel: (619) 231-1515, Fax: (619) 685-3232 Contact: Janette Gerrity, Senior Gardener/Orchidist Public Hours: The Orchid Facility is open on the third Friday of every month from 10 am to 2 pm. Special tours outside of normal hours may be arranged in advance with approval of the Horticulture Manager, Michael Bostwick Business Hours: 6 am-3:30 pm, daily Collection: 148 genera, 434 species, 781 hybrids Largest Genera: Cattleya, Paphiopedilum, Phalaenopsis, Epidendrum, Dendrobium Noteworthy Aspects: Emphasis is on the species that compliment the animal collections, particularly the Chinese species orchids. The facility also serves as a Rescue Center for the United States Fish and Wildlife Service in which they accept orchids acquired via border consfications. The orchids are displayed in a greenhouse as well as outdoors where some naturalize.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know that the san Diego Zoo has an extensive orchid collection from confiscated plants. They open their greenhouses every 2nd Tuesday for a few hours. They may have sold plants in the past but I can’t be quoted on that. Maybe Cindy Hill can clue us in if she’s listening. Anyway, some day I hope to check it out. Matt Ever wonder what happens to confiscated CITIES plants after they are confiscated
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Information obtained at http://orchidweb.org/marketplace.html Fordyce Orchids Frank and Madge Fordyce 1330 Isabel Ave. Livermore, CA 94550 Phone/Fax: 925-447-1659 Website at http://www.fordyceorchids.com 1. Tuesday-Saturday, 10 am-5 pm; Sunday, 1 pm-5 pm; closed Monday 2. Retail 3. Catalog available, no charge 4. Cattleya 5. Orchids/Supplies 6. Hwy. 580 to Portola turnoff, right on Murrieta, right on Stanley, left on Isabel Orchids Orinda Helen and Maynard Michel 1330 Isabel Ave. Livermore, CA 94550-9239 Tel (510) 447-7171 1. Tuesday-Sunday, 10 am-5 pm 2. Wholesale/Retail 4. Phalaenopsis; some other warm growers 5. Orchids/Supplies 6. 45 minutes southeast of San Francisco, near I-580/I-680 intersection 7. No export Tonkin’s Orchids, Inc. Valerie Tonkin 1330 Isabel Ave. Livermore, CA 94550 Mailing address: 119 St. Albans Rd. Kensington, CA 94708 Tel (510) 447-7171 Tel (510) 526-1371 (Kensington location) 1. Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 10 am-5 pm; other days by appointment 2. Wholesale/Retail 3. Catalog available, no charge 4. Paphiopedilum 5. Orchids 6. 45 minutes east of San Francisco Bay, Hwy. 580 toward Stockton
Hi Crystal, There are greenhouses in Livermore? I had no Idea! I know they have golf coureses though, so I’ll have to spend a day out there real soon. Please, tell us where this place is so that we may find it easily. Thanks "Connie"
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Ever wonder what happens to confiscated CITIES plants after they are confiscated? At least some of them make it to the arboretum’s care.
There’s also a .pdf file from the US Fish and Wildlife Service on their plant rescue centers. See: http://international.fws.gov/pdf/prc.pdf The plants themselves cannot be sold, but propagules can. They become White Elephants at that stage, and all kinds of wacky things can happen. Control over these plants ranges from the paphs slowly disappeared over time (according to Eric Hansen in his book) to one facility I won’t mention that kept such strict control over their plants that they wouldn’t even send me capsules that they could produce for fear they’d cross the Fish and Wildlife Service. Go figure. Cheers, -AJHicks Chandler, AZ
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I know that the san Diego Zoo has an extensive orchid collection from confiscated plants. They open their greenhouses every 2nd Tuesday for a few hours. They may have sold plants in the past but I can’t be quoted on that. Maybe Cindy Hill can clue us in if she’s listening. Anyway, some day I hope to check it out. Matt
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ever wonder what happens to confiscated CITIES plants after they are confiscated
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They are on the south side of the highway, just east of the south entrance to the Lawrence Livermore Laboratory. Last time I visited my great nephew and niece I was there and purchased some outstanding plants from Fordyce. — D. Wain Garrison If you can read you can learn anything for there are those smarter than you who can write, however not everyone who can write is smarter than you. Hi Crystal, There are greenhouses in Livermore? I had no Idea! I know they have golf coureses though, so I’ll have to spend a day out there real soon. Please, tell us where this place is so that we may find it easily. Thanks "Connie"
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So I found myself at the greenhouse here in Livermore Ca. I generally don’t go, because I always wind up with something. Which I did today… but I left feeling rather unpleased. There are a couple different growers on the property. One grower owned or leased three large greenhouses. One was the main house full of Phals.. nothing that interesting, except a few miniatures. The second was a growing room where nothing was marked as far as prices, and most area’s said " not fore sale". This contained mostly Phrags. And the third looked like a greenhouse heap. Nothing there was for sale. Huge specimens that were just languishing. When I inquired about a few, they told me they didn’t sell anything that was not in bloom. WTF? The only thing they really had in bloom where the Phals. What made me most heartbroken was they had about 15-20 Psychopsis papillio which I have been dying for. They were in bloom, but they just sucked. They wouldn’t sell a one. If they would have priced the appropriately I would have taken the risk. You would think if they lowered their prices for the stuff that was languishing, they could get a grip. But it seems most people will not buy stuff that is not in bloom. Count me disappointed. Luckily the other greenhouse was better… and the area that was blocked off for cloning and breeding was spectacular. Crystal —
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You are referring to The Orchid Ranch. The growers of the phals and paphs when I have visited there have never seemed to be prepared for visitors or even buyers. Fordyce Orchids, the place you mentioned last are the ones who grow cattleyas. They are prepared for customers and are very helpful. There are also good friends of mine :-) My question to you – did you go home with anything? — Matthew Swift Swift’s Orchids 6658 Carnelian St. Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91701 Phone/Fax 909-483-5590 http://www.swiftsorchids.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – So I found myself at the greenhouse here in Livermore Ca. I generally don’t go, because I always wind up with something. Which I did today… but I left feeling rather unpleased. There are a couple different growers on the property. One grower owned or leased three large greenhouses. One was the main house full of Phals.. nothing that interesting, except a few miniatures. The second was a growing room where nothing was marked as far as prices, and most area’s said " not fore sale". This contained mostly Phrags. And the third looked like a greenhouse heap. Nothing there was for sale. Huge specimens that were just languishing. When I inquired about a few, they told me they didn’t sell anything that was not in bloom. WTF? The only thing they really had in bloom where the Phals. What made me most heartbroken was they had about 15-20 Psychopsis papillio which I have been dying for. They were in bloom, but they just sucked. They wouldn’t sell a one. If they would have priced the appropriately I would have taken the risk. You would think if they lowered their prices for the stuff that was languishing, they could get a grip. But it seems most people will not buy stuff that is not in bloom. Count me disappointed. Luckily the other greenhouse was better… and the area that was blocked off for cloning and breeding was spectacular. Crystal —
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Yes… I didn’t really want to mention names.. but… you are spot on. I’m not really into cattleyas that much… but I came home with two compact varieties called SLC Angel Eyes, and SLC Red Berry (bright Angel x L. milleri). The older gentleman actually spent a lot of time with me after I asked about a few flasks they had. Even took me back to the maternity ward… which I thought was really sweet. He talked to me for about 2 hours. I already told him how thankful I was for the time he spent, but if you happen to talk to him, maybe you could relay as well. As I grow older, I so appreciate more when people are willing to slow down long enough to spend a little time with people. I’m sure he had better things to do. I’ve already spent my budget at Fordyce this month… was in 2 weeks ago, and never even went into the other place… so this time I thought I would start there, and work back to Fordyce. Picked up a variegated vanilla planifolia, and BPI Cochleatun "spider hill" AM/AOSxCocheatum H&R. I know the vanilla seems funny… but I actually hope to use the beans. Crystal —
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You are referring to The Orchid Ranch. The growers of the phals and paphs when I have visited there have never seemed to be prepared for visitors or even buyers. Fordyce Orchids, the place you mentioned last are the ones who grow cattleyas. They are prepared for customers and are very helpful. There are also good friends of mine :-) My question to you – did you go home with anything? — Matthew Swift Swift’s Orchids 6658 Carnelian St. Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91701 Phone/Fax 909-483-5590 http://www.swiftsorchids.com So I found myself at the greenhouse here in Livermore Ca. I generally don’t go, because I always wind up with something. Which I did today… but I left feeling rather unpleased. There are a couple different growers on the property. One grower owned or leased three large greenhouses. One was the main house full of Phals.. nothing that interesting, except a few miniatures. The second was a growing room where nothing was marked as far as prices, and most area’s said " not fore sale". This contained mostly Phrags. And the third looked like a greenhouse heap. Nothing there was for sale. Huge specimens that were just languishing. When I inquired about a few, they told me they didn’t sell anything that was not in bloom. WTF? The only thing they really had in bloom where the Phals. What made me most heartbroken was they had about 15-20 Psychopsis papillio which I have been dying for. They were in bloom, but they just sucked. They wouldn’t sell a one. If they would have priced the appropriately I would have taken the risk. You would think if they lowered their prices for the stuff that was languishing, they could get a grip. But it seems most people will not buy stuff that is not in bloom. Count me disappointed. Luckily the other greenhouse was better… and the area that was blocked off for cloning and breeding was spectacular. Crystal —
Response:
The ‘older gentleman’ was Frank Fordyce. He loves to talk about orchids and answer questions, so don’t ever fear talking with him. You are not taking up his time. He’s kind of like the pixies, when he wants to be seen, he’s seen, when he wants to be scarce, he’s scarce. Another friend of mine said there are about 4-5 longtime orchid people out there who will almost always answer questions at any level about orchids. Fordyce is one. Bob Fuchs is another. Here in the Bay Area Dennis Olivas is another (although he’s a local and not an oldtimer) K Barrett – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yes… I didn’t really want to mention names.. but… you are spot on. I’m not really into cattleyas that much… but I came home with two compact varieties called SLC Angel Eyes, and SLC Red Berry (bright Angel x L. milleri). The older gentleman actually spent a lot of time with me after I asked about a few flasks they had. Even took me back to the maternity ward… which I thought was really sweet. He talked to me for about 2 hours. I already told him how thankful I was for the time he spent, but if you happen to talk to him, maybe you could relay as well. As I grow older, I so appreciate more when people are willing to slow down long enough to spend a little time with people. I’m sure he had better things to do. I’ve already spent my budget at Fordyce this month… was in 2 weeks ago, and never even went into the other place… so this time I thought I would start there, and work back to Fordyce. Picked up a variegated vanilla planifolia, and BPI Cochleatun "spider hill" AM/AOSxCocheatum H&R. I know the vanilla seems funny… but I actually hope to use the beans. Crystal — You are referring to The Orchid Ranch. The growers of the phals and paphs when I have visited there have never seemed to be prepared for visitors or even buyers. Fordyce Orchids, the place you mentioned last are the ones who grow cattleyas. They are prepared for customers and are very helpful. There are also good friends of mine :-) My question to you – did you go home with anything? — Matthew Swift Swift’s Orchids 6658 Carnelian St. Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91701 Phone/Fax 909-483-5590 http://www.swiftsorchids.com So I found myself at the greenhouse here in Livermore Ca. I generally don’t go, because I always wind up with something. Which I did today… but I left feeling rather unpleased. There are a couple different growers on the property. One grower owned or leased three large greenhouses. One was the main house full of Phals.. nothing that interesting, except a few miniatures. The second was a growing room where nothing was marked as far as prices, and most area’s said " not fore sale". This contained mostly Phrags. And the third looked like a greenhouse heap. Nothing there was for sale. Huge specimens that were just languishing. When I inquired about a few, they told me they didn’t sell anything that was not in bloom. WTF? The only thing they really had in bloom where the Phals. What made me most heartbroken was they had about 15-20 Psychopsis papillio which I have been dying for. They were in bloom, but they just sucked. They wouldn’t sell a one. If they would have priced the appropriately I would have taken the risk. You would think if they lowered their prices for the stuff that was languishing, they could get a grip. But it seems most people will not buy stuff that is not in bloom. Count me disappointed. Luckily the other greenhouse was better… and the area that was blocked off for cloning and breeding was spectacular. Crystal —
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I will remember to ask at the next meeting, (he wrote as if this would be sufficient to make it so). Kensington Orchids is right on DC’s beltway, and you are correct that Merrit might already have divisions of the original plants. He had a LONG time employee, Clive Atyeo, who left there a few years ago to work taking care of the national orchid collection at either the Arboretum or Smithsonian, (I am really not sure which or if they are the same of different. It would be just like this country to maintain two separate national orchid collections.) There are any number of people in DC’s orchid society who might know the disposition of the Pabst collection if it made it into the national collections. Ever wonder what happens to confiscated CITIES plants after they are confiscated? At least some of them make it to the arboretum’s care. A few years ago, they got permission from someone to sell excess pieces and divisions of certain plants at the NCOS show and sale held in October on the national arboretum grounds. The monies made from this sale were to help support the collection, of course. They only did it one year and then never came back. And it is my understanding from a rumor that I may not actually have ever heard that the reason they never did it again is because of legal questions that arise surrounding the sale of nationally owned and/or illegally confiscated plants. I think I got my Peristeria alata for $15.00 as a back bulb division and whole group of Phal pulchra from here just before the show closed down and vendors were making deals on things they had left. I wonder now if I am remembering all this correctly. I am not sure I could swear to it in court, as a matter of fact. I may be wrong. :-) (K Barrett, in a pre-coffee moment I sent the above message to you in private email form. Ignore it.)
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do you mean the National arboretum or the Smithsonian? I think they both have orchid collections and I do not know how connected they are. I know one of the caretakers of the national arboretum’s orchid collection. I will try to remember to ask him at the next NCOS meeting if he can find out about the furthur destiny of the original Slc Jewel Box ‘Beverley’. Frank said the Smithsonian. You’d probably have better luck trying to trace the whole collection, asking in regards to Rudolph Pabst’s collection. I wonder if Huntingon might know? Isn’t he or AA Chadwick rather local to that area and big catt enthusiasts? And oldtimers themselves? Heck, by this time they probably have pieces. K Barrett
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Do you mean the National arboretum or the Smithsonian? I think they both have orchid collections and I do not know how connected they are. I know one of the caretakers of the national arboretum’s orchid collection. I will try to remember to ask him at the next NCOS meeting if he can find out about the furthur destiny of the original Slc Jewel Box ‘Beverley’.
Frank said the Smithsonian. You’d probably have better luck trying to trace the whole collection, asking in regards to Rudolph Pabst’s collection. I wonder if Huntingon might know? Isn’t he or AA Chadwick rather local to that area and big catt enthusiasts? And oldtimers themselves? Heck, by this time they probably have pieces. K Barrett
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Do you mean the National arboretum or the Smithsonian? I think they both have orchid collections and I do not know how connected they are. I know one of the caretakers of the national arboretum’s orchid collection. I will try to remember to ask him at the next NCOS meeting if he can find out about the furthur destiny of the original Slc Jewel Box ‘Beverley’. I have always been fascinated by the names and stories behind grex and cultivar names. That was good one. :-) I would have sworn the older gentleman was Mr. Fordyce too. :-# He may actually be older than Merrit Huntington.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The ‘older gentleman’ was Frank Fordyce. He loves to talk about orchids and answer questions, so don’t ever fear talking with him. You are not taking up his time. He’s kind of like the pixies, when he wants to be seen, he’s seen, when he wants to be scarce, he’s scarce. I have not talked to Mr. Fordyce (I always think of him as such since I was about 16 when we met) in many years, but I remember him very fondly and am glad to know he is alive and well doing what he loves best. He is both a great orchidist and a great human being. A rare treasure indeed! Thanks for the story Tom. Fordyce is full of stories, the latest one he told me was about Slc. Hazel Boyd (I posted it on the OGD). The part I loved was finding out that one of its parents was Slc Jewel Box ‘Beverley’. Sold to Rod McLellan by Rudolph Pabst – one of the heirs to the Pabst brewing company fortune – and named after Beverly Schlitz, also a brewing heir. Pabst passed away, from cancer. His widow donated his orchid collection to the Smithsonian. I wonder where it is now, if it is still alive, in one piece. Eric Michael (Hoosiers) once said that if one donates ones collection to a universtiy (or such) PLEASE also donate enough money to take care of it!! Universities etc usually just have enough to make their expenses, and an orchid collection declines due to neglect… as I well know… hmmm, better go water. K Barrett
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Pabst passed away, from cancer. His widow donated his orchid collection to the Smithsonian. I wonder where it is now, if it is still alive, in one piece. Eric Michael (Hoosiers) once said that if one donates ones collection to a universtiy (or such) PLEASE also donate enough money to take care of it!! Universities etc usually just have enough to make their expenses, and an orchid collection declines due to neglect… as I well know… hmmm, better go water
Sad but true! Not sure about the Pabst collection, but the orchid collection at U Texas has seen much better days. When I was a student there I BEGGED to volunteer to help keep it up, but politics prevailed. Basically certain people felt they should run the greenhouse etc. and so the orchids suffered as a result. I would never give my plants to a university or museum! Peggy O’Neal had a magnificent collection of plants, but when she passed it stayed in the family where it flourishes to this day. A LOT of people wanted in on that one, but it was not given away or sold and the collection lives on as a result. And it is well managed too with plenty of consideration for breeding and cloning of the rarer species. A rare and ideal arrangement. Not an easy thing to preserve something like that for generations to come LOL. Tom.
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The ‘older gentleman’ was Frank Fordyce. He loves to talk about orchids and answer questions, so don’t ever fear talking with him. You are not taking up his time. He’s kind of like the pixies, when he wants to be seen, he’s seen, when he wants to be scarce, he’s scarce.
I have not talked to Mr. Fordyce (I always think of him as such since I was about 16 when we met) in many years, but I remember him very fondly and am glad to know he is alive and well doing what he loves best. He is both a great orchidist and a great human being. A rare treasure indeed! Thanks for the story Tom.
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The ‘older gentleman’ was Frank Fordyce. He loves to talk about orchids and answer questions, so don’t ever fear talking with him. You are not taking up his time. He’s kind of like the pixies, when he wants to be seen, he’s seen, when he wants to be scarce, he’s scarce. I have not talked to Mr. Fordyce (I always think of him as such since I was about 16 when we met) in many years, but I remember him very fondly and am glad to know he is alive and well doing what he loves best. He is both a great orchidist and a great human being. A rare treasure indeed! Thanks for the story Tom.
Fordyce is full of stories, the latest one he told me was about Slc. Hazel Boyd (I posted it on the OGD). The part I loved was finding out that one of its parents was Slc Jewel Box ‘Beverley’. Sold to Rod McLellan by Rudolph Pabst – one of the heirs to the Pabst brewing company fortune – and named after Beverly Schlitz, also a brewing heir. Pabst passed away, from cancer. His widow donated his orchid collection to the Smithsonian. I wonder where it is now, if it is still alive, in one piece. Eric Michael (Hoosiers) once said that if one donates ones collection to a universtiy (or such) PLEASE also donate enough money to take care of it!! Universities etc usually just have enough to make their expenses, and an orchid collection declines due to neglect… as I well know… hmmm, better go water. K Barrett
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Question:
I am a newbie to orchids, having received my first two (a phal and a dendrobium) just before Easter this year. I’ve only posted a couple of times here, to obtain information (and was kindly treated, receiving valid and welcome data). I’ve tried to hold back on my excitement with orchids, not overbuying, overwatering or overtreating my acquisitions. I have learned much simply from lurking in the background and being the happy recipient of information I didn’t know I needed which has been sought by others. In short, although you didn’t realize it, you’ve all contributed to my newfound enjoyment of orchids, and I thank you for being so generous with your knowledge. Now, I’m very excited because this weekend ,the Oklahoma Native Plant Society is sponsoring a day long tour of native orchid sites, and I’m driving over 300 miles to participate! I know little to nothing about native orchids, but I am looking forward to learning and perhaps sharing some of what I find with you kind people. Thank you again for helping to foster my new interest in orchids (and, perhaps, other ‘native’ plants as well). Patti —
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KEWL! I’m turning green with envy. Be sure to update us on your adventure when you return. Marla – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Now, I’m very excited because this weekend ,the Oklahoma Native Plant Society is sponsoring a day long tour of native orchid sites, and I’m driving over 300 miles to participate! I know little to nothing about native orchids, but I am looking forward to learning and perhaps sharing some of what I find with you kind people. Thank you again for helping to foster my new interest in orchids (and, perhaps, other ‘native’ plants as well).
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<snip Now, I’m very excited because this weekend ,the Oklahoma Native Plant Society is sponsoring a day long tour of native orchid sites, and I’m driving over 300 miles to participate! I know little to nothing about native orchids, but I am looking forward to learning and perhaps sharing some of what I find with you kind people. Thank you again for helping to foster my new interest in orchids (and, perhaps, other ‘native’ plants as well). Patti
Careful… hiking and looking for orchids and other wildflowers to photograph and identify can be extremely addicting Glen Canadian Prairies
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<snip Now, I’m very excited because this weekend ,the Oklahoma Native Plant Society is sponsoring a day long tour of native orchid sites, and I’m driving over 300 miles to participate! Careful… hiking and looking for orchids and other wildflowers to photograph and identify can be extremely addicting Glen Canadian Prairies
Thanks for the tip, Glen, but it’s a bit too late 
We went to our local river area yesterday to see what we could see and to work on tuning our digital camera skills. The first thing we found was a copperhead!! (Gotta remember to wear them long pants, doncha know.) Didn’t find any native orchids, but had fun splashing in the water and taking pics of wildflowers and bird, rabbit, snake and other wildlife and their prints . All in all, it was a good second outing. (Still struggling with uploading the pics from the first trip, by the way.) Patti
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I’m going to another newsgroup. Every day there’s more talk about sex sex sex…..now abortion and growers experimenting creating monsters from different genuses…….what’s next? Will we have to turn on one of the kid watch packages to block this newsgroups? <grins Gene
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Gene, Miscarriages… not abortions. Mick
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Crystal, I wouldn’t even mention your "strange" cross until after the pod matures, is cut open and you actually see some seed with your own two eyes. I wish I had a buck for every goofy weirdo cross I made that produced only fuzz inside the pod and no seed. Mick HBI, Producer of Fine Orchids in Flask www.OrchidFlask.com . PS, As Marla said… and I agree… breading is much better on chicken.
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Whew.. that’s what I thought…I knew the genus’s were very far apart… that’s why I was surprised when the flower actually started changing. I was kind of experimenting like teenagers who are getting these new body parts, and are trying to get familiar with them. I’ve done a fair amount of breeding of other types of pollen plants, but the pollination from orchids was different then what I am used to. That is why the breeder plant I chose was a milt. Not too much loss no matter what happened. Don’t get me wrong, I like them, but it seemed like a good plant to experiment with. Now I at least know if I should coddle this bud. I was afraid I had gotten pregnant on the first try, and then wasn’t sure what to do. Thanks again to all! And thanks for not openly calling me a doofus. Crystal — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sometimes just the procedure of pollination will do that to a bloom…. it doesn’t mean that it has taken and will be successful (which it probably won’t considering the different genus’s involved) Sometimes it takes a few days for the plant to realize that it has been tricked and it aborts. Sometimes you will even get a cap to form but it turns out empty. Next time you decide to do some breading…. try using it on chicken…. It tastes much much better! *G* Marla I was a little curious a couple days ago… and did some breading. The only thing I have blooming right now are some dends, and a milt. I really didn’t think it would take,
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Okay… all you experts and species types don’t get all hyper on me. I feel a little embarrassed anyway… but, I guess every orchid person wants to see if they can make something new. I wasn’t really serious…. as there are tons of orchids that I still want for my collection… okay I will get to the point. I was a little curious a couple days ago… and did some breading. The only thing I have blooming right now are some dends, and a milt. I really didn’t think it would take, although the milt seemed receptive. Today, it really looks like something is happening. The flower is starting to wilt, and the reproductive parts are starting to swell, and close up. Also the inflorescence where it meets the flower is starting to look vastly different. I know it will be about 5 years before I can see what abomination of nature I have created… if all goes well… but has anyone seen a cross like this? I’ve looked on the web, but have not been able to find anything. Thanks! Crystal —
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Sometimes just the procedure of pollination will do that to a bloom…. it doesn’t mean that it has taken and will be successful (which it probably won’t considering the different genus’s involved) Sometimes it takes a few days for the plant to realize that it has been tricked and it aborts. Sometimes you will even get a cap to form but it turns out empty. Next time you decide to do some breading…. try using it on chicken…. It tastes much much better! *G* Marla – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was a little curious a couple days ago… and did some breading. The only thing I have blooming right now are some dends, and a milt. I really didn’t think it would take,
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If you are referring to a dendrobium crossed with a miltonia, you have most likely, make that almost positively, done nothing. Some close genera will cross, but dendrobs and miltonias aren’t close. If a cross is attempted, the flower and ovary will do all the expected things and then fall off. The only real possibility is that while trying to cross pollinate the two, you may have accidentally self pollinated the flower. I’m sure some more erudite people than me can and will explain it better. Stephen
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay… all you experts and species types don’t get all hyper on me. I feel a little embarrassed anyway… but, I guess every orchid person wants to see if they can make something new. I wasn’t really serious…. as there are tons of orchids that I still want for my collection… okay I will get to the point. I was a little curious a couple days ago… and did some breading. The only thing I have blooming right now are some dends, and a milt. I really didn’t think it would take, although the milt seemed receptive. Today, it really looks like something is happening. The flower is starting to wilt, and the reproductive parts are starting to swell, and close up. Also the inflorescence where it meets the flower is starting to look vastly different. I know it will be about 5 years before I can see what abomination of nature I have created… if all goes well… but has anyone seen a cross like this? I’ve looked on the web, but have not been able to find anything. Thanks! Crystal —
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