The Orchid Garden

Phalaenopsis

Question:

Can anyone tell me how many years one can expect a Phalaenopsis to keep blooming?

Response:

I have heard stories of plants kept alive as heirlooms for generations… I have personally seen huge specimens of Phal. violacea and gigantea that had to be ancient, several people I know have plants well over 25 yrs. As long as a plant is healthy and given the right conditions it will bloom. hope to be of help, David

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone tell me how many years one can expect a Phalaenopsis to keep blooming?

Response:

Joe, Please take this as constructive, and not as put-down: Between the "I hear 150 is the max [TDS] orchids should tolerate" and the "We heard Phals need a 30 degree temp swing each day for 30 days to prompt flowering" – neither of which is correct in my experience – I have to wonder if you have any personal experience to share, or if you’re just repeating stuff you’ve heard from others without judging the veracity of the information. Most of us are here to share our experiences and help others, and I’m concerned that such statements might have a tendency to scare newbies off. I know that there’s no way I can provide a 30-degree swing for a month, and when I was beginning, hearing that may very well have prevented me from starting to grow phals. I think your website is pretty neat (I do agree with Wendy that the mouse trails shutoff button needs to be at the top), and full of some good info, even if it appears to me to assume that what works for your wife will work for everyone. There’s more than one way to skin a cat, and in orchid growing, that holds true a thousand times over, as each person’s conditions are different. — Ray Barkalow –<– First Rays Orchids http://www.firstrays.com Secure Online Ordering & Lots of Free Info

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Manuel, We heard Phals need a 30 degree temp swing each day for 30 days to prompt flowering . But we have had some success also with special lighting and water and other details. Please see the details (with photos) of what we do at: http://www.users.cloud9.net/~epeople/orchid/orchid.shtml Good Luck! Joe I’m new to all of this so I appreciate any help I may get. I was given 2 Phals. that were in the same pot in regular potting soil. The plants didn’t seem too healthy so I decided to re-plant them. I went to home depot and bought bark (medium size) and 2 new pots. When I removed the plants, I noticed the roots were in bad shape. Some were dried, but most had received way to much moisture and seemed mushy. I used a sharp blade to remove all the damaged roots. I re-planted the Phals.in the new pots with bark and DID NOT water them. Both plants have 3 spikes each but no flowers. Should I cut the spikes all the way down to let the plant recover? Do I wait for the spikes to dry? Please help.. Thanks, Manuel

Response:

Manuel, We heard Phals need a 30 degree temp swing each day for 30 days to prompt flowering . But we have had some success also with special lighting and water and other details. Please see the details (with photos) of what we do at: http://www.users.cloud9.net/~epeople/orchid/orchid.shtml Good Luck! Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to all of this so I appreciate any help I may get. I was given 2 Phals. that were in the same pot in regular potting soil. The plants didn’t seem too healthy so I decided to re-plant them. I went to home depot and bought bark (medium size) and 2 new pots. When I removed the plants, I noticed the roots were in bad shape. Some were dried, but most had received way to much moisture and seemed mushy. I used a sharp blade to remove all the damaged roots. I re-planted the Phals.in the new pots with bark and DID NOT water them. Both plants have 3 spikes each but no flowers. Should I cut the spikes all the way down to let the plant recover? Do I wait for the spikes to dry? Please help.. Thanks, Manuel

Response:

I’m new to all of this so I appreciate any help I may get. I was given 2 Phals. that were in the same pot in regular potting soil. The plants didn’t seem too healthy so I decided to re-plant them. I went to home depot and bought bark (medium size) and 2 new pots. When I removed the plants, I noticed the roots were in bad shape. Some were dried, but most had received way to much moisture and seemed mushy. I used a sharp blade to remove all the damaged roots. I re-planted the Phals.in the new pots with bark and DID NOT water them. Both plants have 3 spikes each but no flowers. Should I cut the spikes all the way down to let the plant recover? Do I wait for the spikes to dry? Please help.. Thanks, Manuel

Response:

Well, I’m going to be a tough love advocate and tell you to cut off all the spikes whether they’ve dried or not. Let the plants recover. Granted there’s not much happening on flowerless spikes, but hey! Why make ‘em even work that hard at keeping them alive? If the plants live they’ll make new spikes next season. If the leaves start getting a bit wilty the plant might want a fine bark rather than a medium bark (Just to hold a bit of moisture). But see how it does before repotting again. You could be right for your conditions! K Barrett – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to all of this so I appreciate any help I may get. I was given 2 Phals. that were in the same pot in regular potting soil. The plants didn’t seem too healthy so I decided to re-plant them. I went to home depot and bought bark (medium size) and 2 new pots. When I removed the plants, I noticed the roots were in bad shape. Some were dried, but most had received way to much moisture and seemed mushy. I used a sharp blade to remove all the damaged roots. I re-planted the Phals.in the new pots with bark and DID NOT water them. Both plants have 3 spikes each but no flowers. Should I cut the spikes all the way down to let the plant recover? Do I wait for the spikes to dry? Please help.. Thanks, Manuel

Response:

Aren’t we talking about the fall/winter/spring-blooming phals here?  those are the ones that might branch off and bloom again– espec if they get cool nights to encourage more blooming.  but, the summer-blooming ones, espec those with P. violacea in them will bloom again off the end of the inflorescence—so you dont cut those unless they die back, right? as for the P. equestris and hybrids–these little fellas bloom again off the end, as well–so no cutting until the spike is really turning brown.  –Alynne * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Hello Christine,     My preference is to cut it all off, but if the phal has 4 or more mature (large) leaves you can try cutting it down to about 1/2" above the point just above topmost unbloomed node (looks like a tiny leaf) on the stem.   In 2 to 4 weeks you should see a secondary bloom spike appear and you will have blooms in a couple of months.      Good luck.  

Response:

I also would like to know if I should cut off the stems after the blooms have fallen off? Should I cut them off all the way or just partially? I have heard both options.   orchid11251 Christine Davies

Response:

I also would like to know if I should cut off the stems after the blooms have fallen off? Should I cut them off all the way or just partially? I have heard both options.   orchid11251 Christine Davies

  The answer you get to this question will depend on who you ask .  I left the spike on my P. equestris alone after the flowers died to see if it would do anything spectacular.  It died all the way back to the base. On an equestris cross, I cut last year’s spike back to just above the second or third node and it formed a keike and is now in flower again. Didn’t seem to suffer any ill effects from both keike production *and* flowering, but it is a big healthy plant.  I will probably cut the spikes on my other Phal. hybrids all the way back after the blooms fade so they can build up their strenght for next year.   Karen Before you buy.

Response:

Your answer is, in large part, a matter of personal preference.  If you leave the spikes alone, or cut them just below the fading flowers, you may get secondary branches and more flowers.  If you cut it at the base, you won’t, but that helps the plant store up energy for next year’s blooms. Big healthy plants being fed regularly can support the secondary bloomings without apparent harm, altho I personally find that the secondary blooming is rarely as nice as the primary.  A small weak plant shouldn’t be encouraged to make them. Hope this helps, — Kenni Judd Juno Beach Orchids http://www.jborchids.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I also would like to know if I should cut off the stems after the blooms have fallen off? Should I cut them off all the way or just partially? I have heard both options.   orchid11251 Christine Davies

Response:

Why do some of these potted plants not bloom, when others in the same area bloom very well . I have had some  for several years  with gorgeous blooms as many as 25 blossoms on a mauve one. Also how many years does it take for a keiki to bloom or will at bloom at all? Joyce

Response:

I always cut my phal spikes off above the third node after flowering(assuming the plant is healthy) , and about 50% of the time I get a secondary spike.  If a secondary spike doesn’t develop within 3 months, I cut the spike off at the base.  Interestingly enough, plants that are hell-bent to bloom will not only develop a secondary, they will put out a new spike for you to enjoy. Those are the specimen plants we all long for! I also would like to know if I should cut off the stems after the blooms have fallen off? Should I cut them off all the way or just partially? I have heard both options.   orchid11251 Christine Davies

* Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Hi! I am pretty new to orchid growing, and have a question that I hope someone can answer.  I have a phalaenopsis that bloomed well, and finished blooming about 4-41/2 months ago. After it was done, I cut the flower stalk only part way to try to get a quick re-bloom. (I have had good luck with this in the past with other orchids).  Anyway, the stalk never resprouted, but it still has not died either. The old flower stalk is still green and healthy looking.  So … my question is  … should I leave it alone, or should I cut the old flower stalk off? I am concerned that if I leave it, I might inhibit another stalk from developing.  Any thoughts or advice on this

Response:

Hi! I am pretty new to orchid growing, and have a question that I hope someone can answer.  I have a phalaenopsis that bloomed well, and finished blooming about 4-41/2 months ago. After it was done, I cut the flower stalk only part way to try to get a quick re-bloom. (I have had good luck with this in the past with other orchids).  Anyway, the stalk never resprouted, but it still has not died either. The old flower stalk is still green and healthy looking.  So … my question is  … should I leave it alone, or should I cut the old flower stalk off? I am concerned that if I leave it, I might inhibit another stalk from developing.  Any thoughts or advice on this

Richard, Just leave it as long as it’s still alive. Sometimes they’ll respike right away, other times it can take months. The plant will probably respike regardless of it’s presence. -Rod- Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/

Response:

Hi Cut it off. This is the time to do all the trimming and repotting. Not after The first of OCT. Your plant needs to get ready to rest and start it’s flowering in the spring. Trying to keep it flowering will only stress it out… Spiking should begin in late fall. We repot all our Phals every year at this time (actually we are pretty much done now) This gives them a BOOST…the roots grow and they really take off. Check out the American Orchid Society website <http://www.orchidweb.org They can give you a wealth of advice about anything ORCHID you need. Good Growing!! John Foley J & B Orchids http://members.tripod.com/~jborchids

Response:

(snip’d) I am concerned that if I leave it, I might inhibit another stalk from developing.  Any thoughts or advice on this

Richard, hello The leaf chemistry of the monopodial orchids (like Phals) changes to the process of blooming (as does the pseudobulb in sympodial orchids) but this isn’t the time of year to sacrifice better blooms next year for an inferior "re-bloom" now (and "now" is iffy  . . .) listen to the plant: if that "stem" hasn’t rebloomed in 4 months, cut if off, repot, get the plant back to producing more roots and leaves . . . it’ll reward your patience. Blooming is a stressor for most orchids, but especially the monopodials -Bob BOTANA 1-800-723-8502                 http://www.botana.com "In the Jungle of Orchid texts and info, BotanaBooks is an amazin’Source . . . NOT an Amazon outlet" Now offering the 30%+ discount & free S&H to individuals, not only the Orchid Societies:                                 http://www.botana.com/newbooks.html .

Response:

The leaf chemistry of the monopodial orchids (like Phals) changes to the process of blooming (as does the pseudobulb in sympodial orchids) but this isn’t the time of year to sacrifice better blooms next year for an inferior "re-bloom" now (and "now" is iffy . . .) listen to the plant: if that "stem" hasn’t rebloomed in 4 months, cut if off, repot, get the plant back to producing more roots and leaves . . . it’ll reward your patience.

Let me describe the situation one of my phals is in. It also has a green spike that hasn’t had blooms on it since April. I repotted it in late June and since then it has had a lot of root and leaf growth. However the spike remains green, except at the very tip where it has dried. Should I also cut off this spike? Dimitri

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – snip’d . . .) listen to the plant: if that "stem" hasn’t rebloomed in 4 months, cut if off, repot, get the plant back to producing more roots and leaves . . . it’ll reward your patience. Let me describe the situation one of my phals is in. It also has a green spike that hasn’t had blooms on it since April. I repotted it in late June and since then it has had a lot of root and leaf growth. However the spike remains green, except at the very tip where it has dried. Should I also cut off this spike? Dimitri

Dimitri, hi it _does_ appear that the plant is an a vegatative "mode", and _I_ would cut the spike to encourage a stronger plant . . . and this is especially true of young(ish) plants (and if you really were looking forward to orchid flowers, well, what better rationale is there to acquire another plant, one that’s in-bud!). . . plants _do_ tell us what they want (like neighbors, co-workers, and family do!) -Bob BOTANA

Response:

There are at least 2 camps on this issue, each with support for its position.  I weigh in for cutting the spike to let the plant build energy for better blooming next time around. Kenni F. Judd Juno Beach Orchids http://www.jborchids.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi! I am pretty new to orchid growing, and have a question that I hope someone can answer.  I have a phalaenopsis that bloomed well, and finished blooming about 4-41/2 months ago. After it was done, I cut the flower stalk only part way to try to get a quick re-bloom. (I have had good luck with this in the past with other orchids).  Anyway, the stalk never resprouted, but it still has not died either. The old flower stalk is still green and healthy looking.  So … my question is  … should I leave it alone, or should I cut the old flower stalk off? I am concerned that if I leave it, I might inhibit another stalk from developing.  Any thoughts or advice on this

Response:

There are at least 2 camps on this issue, each with support for its position.  I weigh in for cutting the spike to let the plant build energy for better blooming next time around.

Nothing wrong with that, Kenni. I often say the same. Then I think about the times we’ve had 6-8+ spikes, 1/2 of which were old, and think…well The downside is that the blooms on the old spikes usually won’t be of the same quality as those on the new spikes. Worse, if the plant hasn’t had truly perfect care, the blooms on the new spikes are substandard as well. For the person that NEEDS the best blooms possible, resting the plant (by chopping the spikes) from September on is sound advice. If you prefer quantity and are willing to chance reducing quality, old and new spikes is not a bad way to go. It’s a tough decision, 30 impeccable blooms or 100 mediocre ones. -Rod- Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/

Response:

I read in Judy White’s "Taylor’s Guide to Orchids" and was also told by a vendor, that you should never ever cut a spike of a Phal. violacea or its hybrids.  They apparently can keep blooming from the same spike for years. If you cut it, the plant may never bloom again.  Is this true?  Anyone have any first hand experience with this?  And how do you know if it’s a P. violacea hybrid for sure anyway? Helene Williams

Helene, Based on my limited knowledge, there are "evergreen stem" phal hybrids on which the stems should not be cut.  These stems tend to have a sawtooth or zig-zag formation — totally different from the "normal" phal stem.  These stems are shorter and tend to grow more horizontally. They do rebloom and if happy (alas, not mine) can sometimes be almost everblooming.  Eventually, the stem will turn brown and can be cut, but that may take years.  BTW, these hybrids can include several species, such as luedemanniana and amboinensis as well as violacea.  I suspect, but am not sure, that if you cut a green stem the plant would eventually grow another.   –greta — Greta Kaplan & Skip Barger can be found at:  Remove blackhole if you aren’t spammin’!

Response:

I read in Judy White’s "Taylor’s Guide to Orchids" and was also told by a vendor, that you should never ever cut a spike of a Phal. violacea or its hybrids.  They apparently can keep blooming from the same spike for years. If you cut it, the plant may never bloom again.  Is this true?  Anyone have any first hand experience with this?  And how do you know if it’s a P. violacea hybrid for sure anyway? Helene Williams

Response:

Hi, I just bought my first orchid—a Phalaenopsis. I was warned not to water it too much and now I have this problem: the leaves are all wrinkled and the petals are just hanging. Have I watered it too much or too little?

Response:

Hi, I just bought my first orchid—a Phalaenopsis. I was warned not to water it too much and now I have this problem: the leaves are all wrinkled and the petals are just hanging. Have I watered it too much or too little?

Toni, The only way to know for sure is to unpot the plant and look at the roots. Healthy roots will be silvery-white in color (or green if wet) unless stained by the media and will be firm to the touch. Dried out roots will be harder to the touch and wrinkled. Rotted roots will be black and will fall apart when you pull on them. If you find that the roots are not rotted, increase the frequency of your watering. The media should not dry out entirely but should not remain wet. A little saying that helps: If the media is wet, water tomorrow If the media is dry, you should have watered yesterday. -Rod- Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/ Basic Culture CD-ROM: http://vengers.com/demo/cd.htm

Response:

…snip… If the media is wet, water tomorrow If the media is dry, you should have watered yesterday.

Rod- Is this just for phals, or does it work for all orchids? Also, I’ve always wondered how "wet" is defined.  I tend to water my phals when the long strands of  sphagnum moss on top of all the styrofoam popcorn and phal-ophyllic bark media and stuff is barely damp.  That is to say, picking up the moss between my fingers will not crumble, make dust, or make a raspy noise when rubbed.  Damp and moist media also has a darker color than dry. Even as a neophyte myself, I seem to have noticed a difference in an orchid’s response to watering when it’s damp, moist, or dry. Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/ Basic Culture CD-ROM: http://vengers.com/demo/cd.htm

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – …snip… If the media is wet, water tomorrow If the media is dry, you should have watered yesterday. Rod- Is this just for phals, or does it work for all orchids? Also, I’ve always wondered how "wet" is defined.  I tend to water my phals when the long strands of  sphagnum moss on top of all the styrofoam popcorn and phal-ophyllic bark media and stuff is barely damp.  That is to say, picking up the moss between my fingers will not crumble, make dust, or make a raspy noise when rubbed.  Damp and moist media also has a darker color than dry. Even as a neophyte myself, I seem to have noticed a difference in an orchid’s response to watering when it’s damp, moist, or dry. Steve

Hi Steve, No,. definitely not for all Orchids. Take a Den for instance. The last line would change to "If the media is dry, water today..or tomorrow" But it’s handy anyhow. Terms such as "wet", "damp", "barely dry", etc., are open to some interpretation I admit. I would term "wet" as being more wet than dry, "damp" as being more dry than wet, and "barely dry" as being almost dry. I let my fingers do the walking I’m afraid. That’s not a lot of help to you since they’re on my hand, not yours -Rod- Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/ Basic Culture CD-ROM: http://vengers.com/demo/cd.htm

Response:

   Your orchid needs higher humidity than it will usually get in your home. Also as long as the water flows through the pot and doesn’t pool around the roots you really can’t overwater it if you do 3xs a week. Important, don’t water the leaves, especially don’t leave water in between the leaves, it can cause rot. I also suggest you find a book on growing orchids. The one from Ortho for maybe $7 will do. sandra

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -If the media is wet, water tomorrow If the media is dry, you should have watered yesterday. Rod- Is this just for phals, or does it work for all orchids? Also, I’ve always wondered how "wet" is defined.  I tend to water my phals when the long strands of  sphagnum moss on top of all the styrofoam popcorn and phal-ophyllic bark media and stuff is barely damp.  That is to say, picking up the moss between my fingers will not crumble, make dust, or make a raspy noise when rubbed.  Damp and moist media also has a darker color than dry. Even as a neophyte myself, I seem to have noticed a difference in an orchid’s response to watering when it’s damp, moist, or dry. Steve

Lets use a washcloth fora comparative example.  If you can squeeze any water out of it then it is still wet.  The same goes for an orchid – if you could squeeze water (theoretically) out of the media then the plant would be considered wet.  Water phalaenopsis, miltonias, cymbidiums, paphiopedilums and zygopetalums when the washcloth is only showing signs of dryness, but not completely dry.  You would then water cattleyas, dendrobiums, and oncidiums when it is dry. Hope this helps, Matt Swift – residence – Ventura, CA employment – Santa Barbara Orchid Estate, CA

Response:

First off, check out the following website for a Phal culture sheet that gives you the basics: http://www.theaos.org/orchids/culture/index.html General rule is to cut the spike between the first flower and top-most section, so I’ll assume that whoever cut it did the right thing and to leave it alone. BTW only leave the spike if you expect it to re-flower, health of the plant permitting (including your confidence that the plant will remain healthy under your care, _wink_) Plants only need to be repotted when it outgrows the current pot (main heart of the plant well above the medium’s level, notwithstanding aerial roots) OR if you feel the medium has rotted out (medium rot is natural, but the remnants in the pot can suffocate the root system, the idea is to keep it moist but with adequate air circulation).  In all likelihood, no repotting necessary at this time since purchased 6-7 mo ago. As for pots, I don’t believe it really matters. BUT, something to consider, clay pots will retain moisture while plastic pots do not. However, the medium should retain enough water anyway.  Since clay pots are porous, roots tend to "cling" to the pot that would cause you worry when attempting to repot it. (I say "cling" b/c it is not as if the roots grow into the pot material, so much as grows to fit the form) If this is your one and only or one of a few orchids you own, consider a clear glass pot (clear plastic will surely yellow in the sun and look nasty in no time).  This will give you an inside look at your plant and would surely add to your enjoyment of watching your baby grow. Another note Phal’s are sensitive to moisture.  Phal’s have no water retaining appendages and so rely on its surroundings for water. Maintaining high humidity will do wonders for the plant.  That said, DO NOT OVERWATER.  Its humidity, not wetness.  I inherited some "bonsai" orchids that were 10 to 15 years old who’s growth was completely stunted. I placed them in a small enclosed aquarium and BOOM. Hope you enjoy, Adrian.

Response:

The fact that it has a new leaf coming is a good sign!  Echo Adrian’s advice re: a culture sheet;  that will tell you much.  I do disagree on one point, and that has to do with the difference between clay and plastic pots. Because clay pots are porous, as was noted, they also dry out faster than plastic.  (I’m guessing that was a typo;  heaven knows I make enough of them myself.)  If you want clay or ceramic for looks, pot the plant in plastic and then place the pot in another container with enough room for circulation between the two pots.  Good drainage is important for all orchids. Have fun! Diana

Response:

Hi, I just received some new Phal : cochlearis, fasciata, florescensis, stuartiana and gigantea. How do you grow them and do you have some culture tips ? thanks Fran

Filed under: Growing Orchids

Related Posts