The Orchid Garden

Night Blooming Cereus

Question:

I also have a night blooming Cereus!  I got it from the nurse of my father in law.  I have had it about 8 months and I have gotten one beautiful flower out of it.  I don’t know what I’m doing – I’m not fertilizing the heck out of it or anything!  I live in Houston, TX  so maybe it likes the humidity?  I did repot it – maybe that helped?  I was about to have a second bloom when my new Greyhound ate part of it for lunch!  It’s coming back very strong though – the bloom is absolute gorgeous -weird, but very pretty!  good luck.

Response:

I have a 16 year old Night Blooming Cereus.  It has never bloomed!  Last spring my husband got a Dalmatian puppy.  Within 5 minutes it had destroyed most of my plant.  It is starting to grow back slowly.  I don’t know much about the care of this kind of plant.  Does anyone have one?  Can you tell me the best way to care for mine?  Any help appreciated.  I have seen them bloom and they are beautiful. — Linda http://www.toolcity.net/~xstitch/home%20page.html

Response:

I also have a night blooming cereus.  It blooms right after rain, and with the rainy weather in the south this year, it has bloomed all summer.

Response:

I also have a night blooming Cereus!  I got it from the nurse of my father in law.  I have had it about 8 months and I have gotten one beautiful

Do you leave it outdoors?  We received a young plant from my father-in-law about 2 years ago. So far, no flowers.  We live in Zone 6 and the plant remains indoors until the warmer weather.  It looks like we missed this year’s bloom again.   (This plant is UGLY!) Chris

Response:

writes: I have a 16 year old Night Blooming Cereus.  It has never bloomed! Last spring my husband got a Dalmatian puppy.  Within 5 minutes it had destroyed most of my plant.  It is starting to grow back slowly.  I don’t know much about the care of this kind of plant.  Does anyone have one?  Can you tell me the best way to care for mine?  Any help appreciated.  I have seen them bloom and they are beautiful. — Linda http://www.toolcity.net/~xstitch/home%20page.html

I have a night blooming cereus also and I am in the same boat as you are.  I have only had mine for 5 years and it has never bloomed.  I am in zone 5 and it has done wonderfully outdoors all summer long.  It has a lot of new growth but (alas) no blossoms.  It is my first experience with an orchid and I know virtually nothing about them.  Sorry.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The name "Night Blooming Cereus" has been applied to a wide variety of Cactaceae but the one most commonly grown under that name is Epiphyllum oxypetalum. It is a rather rapid and rank growing plant with large flattened leaf-like stems arising from stout, more cylindrical, main stems. It tends to quickly out grow the flower pot and is a rather heavy feeder. It blooms late at night during the summer and autumn months. Contrary to popular opinion, the day blooming "Epiphyllum" hybrids are not jungle plants but are actually complex hybrids between Heliocereus, Nopalxochia and Disocactus species native to the subtropical forests of Mexico and Central America. Most of the hybrids don’t even have any Epiphyllum in their parentage. They are better referred to as "Orchid Cactus" hybrids. Okay, Toad, I stand (actually sit) corrected about the jungle part. I should have consulted my books as you did before I opened my (computer?) mouth. Anyway, they don’t like to have their butts frozen. I’ll stick to the rest of the my care tips for regular epis with which I’ve had excellent success. John

I’ve so often seen Epiphyllums & Selenicereus called collectively "epis" (for "epiphytic" rather than for epiphullum) that I just call all mine epis too, inclkusive of the "rikrak" cactus & the cereus that aren’t Epiphyllum (& don’t bloom for me as thrillingly as the Epiphyllum, but I don’t mind, as I love just the leaves too). The night-bloomer I’m worried about because its oldest leaf is yellowing unexpectedly is not likely a hybrid though I’ve no way of knowing — it was a start from a woman who inherited her grandmother’s plants, so if it’s a hybrid, likely one that goes back to the 1960s when there weren’t so many. But I don’t know a hell of a lot about them. I’ve kept them since I was a kid, but they’ve always been forgiving if treated like any old succulent, I really only in the last two years or so tried somewhat to pay attention to their very specific needs — & not too focused on them even lately since the houseplants don’t hold my attention as well as the outdoors stuff. After "accidentally" having an amazing heavy-blooming season, with far more blooms than ever before, I wanted to duplicate that experience if I could — though the book-advice to remove leaves that have bloomed heavily since the same leaves won’t bloom a second time is difficult to follow since so many of the leaves are so beautiful in & of themselves. I protect mine from cold because the books say too. But my interest in these comes from my great-grandmother’s interest long ago, she called hers June Cactuses & all us kids got starts from her, so I’ve always been around them. And her care of them (though having good results) only slightly resembled the recommended care — which I assume is because of their forgiving nature not because the current experts got it wrong. But John’s comment on them doing better in the cold than popular opinion asserts — that rang true because my great-grandmother kept hers on an unheated porch, protected from wind but not from cold, & as she heated with a little furnace in the living room, there wasn’t even much residual heat from the house that got onto the porch — it was COLD out there in winter. She had decades-old specimens that never saw the inside of her house. Still, the almost universal assertion that they can’t take the cold makes me leery of keeping mine outside as she always did, even though I saw the good results for her. Not that they experienced vast coldness, here in Puget Sound territory it’s rarely frightfully cold but down in the twenties easily enough & the teens now & then. I appreciated both John & Cereoid’s suggestions on care, though I’m still wondering if I’d be doing this one plant a favor to remove that big yellowing leaf, or if I can keep holding out hope that it might regain its color in spring. On John’s assertion that it should have a sunnier spot during winter I’m leaving it in the morning-sun window now, but too soon to tell if that makes it stop losing its green. -paghat — Visit the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.angelfire.com/grrl/paghat/gardenhome.html#top

Response:

In Hawaii, they call the naturalized weedy Hylocereus undatus an "Epiphyllum" too but that does not make it one. The use of the term "Epiphyllum" in popular horticultural parlance and in the strict botanical sense is two different things. BTW, I do agree with John’s cultural advice.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The name "Night Blooming Cereus" has been applied to a wide variety of Cactaceae but the one most commonly grown under that name is Epiphyllum oxypetalum. It is a rather rapid and rank growing plant with large flattened leaf-like stems arising from stout, more cylindrical, main stems. It tends to quickly out grow the flower pot and is a rather heavy feeder. It blooms late at night during the summer and autumn months. Contrary to popular opinion, the day blooming "Epiphyllum" hybrids are not jungle plants but are actually complex hybrids between Heliocereus, Nopalxochia and Disocactus species native to the subtropical forests of Mexico and Central America. Most of the hybrids don’t even have any Epiphyllum in their parentage. They are better referred to as "Orchid Cactus" hybrids. Okay, Toad, I stand (actually sit) corrected about the jungle part. I should have consulted my books as you did before I opened my (computer?) mouth. Anyway, they don’t like to have their butts frozen. I’ll stick to the rest of the my care tips for regular epis with which I’ve had excellent success. John I’ve so often seen Epiphyllums & Selenicereus called collectively "epis" (for "epiphytic" rather than for epiphullum) that I just call all mine epis too, inclkusive of the "rikrak" cactus & the cereus that aren’t Epiphyllum (& don’t bloom for me as thrillingly as the Epiphyllum, but I don’t mind, as I love just the leaves too). The night-bloomer I’m worried about because its oldest leaf is yellowing unexpectedly is not likely a hybrid though I’ve no way of knowing — it was a start from a woman who inherited her grandmother’s plants, so if it’s a hybrid, likely one that goes back to the 1960s when there weren’t so many. But I don’t know a hell of a lot about them. I’ve kept them since I was a kid, but they’ve always been forgiving if treated like any old succulent, I really only in the last two years or so tried somewhat to pay attention to their very specific needs — & not too focused on them even lately since the houseplants don’t hold my attention as well as the outdoors stuff. After "accidentally" having an amazing heavy-blooming season, with far more blooms than ever before, I wanted to duplicate that experience if I could — though the book-advice to remove leaves that have bloomed heavily since the same leaves won’t bloom a second time is difficult to follow since so many of the leaves are so beautiful in & of themselves. I protect mine from cold because the books say too. But my interest in these comes from my great-grandmother’s interest long ago, she called hers June Cactuses & all us kids got starts from her, so I’ve always been around them. And her care of them (though having good results) only slightly resembled the recommended care — which I assume is because of their forgiving nature not because the current experts got it wrong. But John’s comment on them doing better in the cold than popular opinion asserts — that rang true because my great-grandmother kept hers on an unheated porch, protected from wind but not from cold, & as she heated with a little furnace in the living room, there wasn’t even much residual heat from the house that got onto the porch — it was COLD out there in winter. She had decades-old specimens that never saw the inside of her house. Still, the almost universal assertion that they can’t take the cold makes me leery of keeping mine outside as she always did, even though I saw the good results for her. Not that they experienced vast coldness, here in Puget Sound territory it’s rarely frightfully cold but down in the twenties easily enough & the teens now & then. I appreciated both John & Cereoid’s suggestions on care, though I’m still wondering if I’d be doing this one plant a favor to remove that big yellowing leaf, or if I can keep holding out hope that it might regain its color in spring. On John’s assertion that it should have a sunnier spot during winter I’m leaving it in the morning-sun window now, but too soon to tell if that makes it stop losing its green. -paghat — Visit the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.angelfire.com/grrl/paghat/gardenhome.html#top

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The name "Night Blooming Cereus" has been applied to a wide variety of Cactaceae but the one most commonly grown under that name is Epiphyllum oxypetalum. It is a rather rapid and rank growing plant with large flattened leaf-like stems arising from stout, more cylindrical, main stems. It tends to quickly out grow the flower pot and is a rather heavy feeder. It blooms late at night during the summer and autumn months. Contrary to popular opinion, the day blooming "Epiphyllum" hybrids are not jungle plants but are actually complex hybrids between Heliocereus, Nopalxochia and Disocactus species native to the subtropical forests of Mexico and Central America. Most of the hybrids don’t even have any Epiphyllum in their parentage. They are better referred to as "Orchid Cactus" hybrids.

Okay, Toad, I stand (actually sit) corrected about the jungle part. I should have consulted my books as you did before I opened my (computer?) mouth. Anyway, they don’t like to have their butts frozen. I’ll stick to the rest of the my care tips for regular epis with which I’ve had excellent success. John

Response:

The name "Night Blooming Cereus" has been applied to a wide variety of Cactaceae but the one most commonly grown under that name is Epiphyllum oxypetalum. It is a rather rapid and rank growing plant with large flattened leaf-like stems arising from stout, more cylindrical, main stems. It tends to quickly out grow the flower pot and is a rather heavy feeder. It blooms late at night during the summer and autumn months. Contrary to popular opinion, the day blooming "Epiphyllum" hybrids are not jungle plants but are actually complex hybrids between Heliocereus, Nopalxochia and Disocactus species native to the subtropical forests of Mexico and Central America. Most of the hybrids don’t even have any Epiphyllum in their parentage. They are better referred to as "Orchid Cactus" hybrids. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve an epi which right now, in the midst of its winter sleep, is losing the green of its oldest central leaf (headed toward a dirty yellow), & changing its physical texture to a bit wrinkly instead of smooth. Its an old plant but not large, only that one leaf is a foot tall, plus many stubbier leaves eight to ten inches. Nothing in its environment has changed that I’m aware of, & several other epis, most of them much larger, have never been even a tiny problem. But it sure looks like that one old leaf from a long-ago cutting is dying. The younger leaves don’t appear to be effected — so far. It MIGHT not have been getting enough sun because there were bigger epis surrounding it. They all sit in a subdued-sunlike location but perhaps being the small one it needed more sun than it was getting. Today I moved it to a window sill where it gets morning light only, though it’s chilly in the window this time of year. If sunlight can’t be what it needs I’ll put it back in the subdued-light location with the others, I’m dubious the sill is a good spot though I felt i had to try something. It was transplanted into a prettier next-size-up pot over a year ago. It’s already rootbound again, I know because today I turned it upside down to slide it momentarily out of the pot to see if there was something wrong with the roots that could be killing that leaf. Might not have been the smartest thing to unpot it for that moment, didn’t quite know what I was looking for anyway. I could detect nothing wrong with the roots by mere glance, & slipped it back into its pot not too horribly disturbed I hoped. MAYBE the soil was too dry but in past years that hasn’t mattered in winter. Oh, one thing else that is sort of weird but probably nothing important, when I popped it out of the pot for a second & it was upside down in my hand, I got a couple stickers off it in my fingers which was rather startling. I could ALMOST swear it never had cactus stickers on it before, but it now has very un-epi-like really sharp cactus stickers growing a little ways up from the crown & at some of the bloom-site dents the name of which I just forgot. Anyone have enough knowledge of epis that you can tell me if I should kiss that leaf goodby & just remove it now, or wait to see if it turns back to green in spring, or should I consider it the first sign of something that needs greater attending to, or what?? That old leaf never bloomed, only younger ones bloomed, but it has been my favorite leaf on the plant anyway, because it was so tough & thick & scary. I will be sorry if it has to be removed, but relieved if that’s for sure the worst it needs. -paghat Visit the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.angelfire.com/grrl/paghat/gardenhome.html#top I’ve raised numerous epis over the past twenty-five years but never a Night Blooming Ceresus. However, my experience with regular epis has made me aware of the following: 1. Epis do not like to be transplanted into step-up pots. Whenever I’ve replanted in larger pots, I get a lot of vegetative grow with a lot of stickers on it with few or no blossoms. They perform much better and seem happier (bloom) when they are so root bound that one has to use a knife to take them out of their pot. I’ve had them thrive in pots with soil? so hard that there was not give to it. BTW, they seem to prefer clay pots. 2. Full inside sun in the winter and bright outside shade in the summer make them happy, if blooming is any indication. (Mine start blooming inside in April and continue outside through July.) 3. Water is important. Unlike regular cacti they thrive under moist conditions because they are a jungle plant. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. If you do, the leaves will become dry and shriveled with brown indented edges. I’ve never found wet feet to be a problem. 4. I fertilize every couple of months at full strength with a high phosphorus fertilizer such as Green Light Super Bloom (12-55-6). 5. Contrary to what gurus in various books tell you, epis don’t react negatively to cool conditions. Mine were far better bloomers outside in zone 3 than they are in zone 6. John

Response:

I’ve an epi which right now, in the midst of its winter sleep, is losing the green of its oldest central leaf (headed toward a dirty yellow), & changing its physical texture to a bit wrinkly instead of smooth. Its an old plant but not large, only that one leaf is a foot tall, plus many stubbier leaves eight to ten inches. Nothing in its environment has changed that I’m aware of, & several other epis, most of them much larger, have never been even a tiny problem. But it sure looks like that one old leaf from a long-ago cutting is dying. The younger leaves don’t appear to be effected — so far. It MIGHT not have been getting enough sun because there were bigger epis surrounding it. They all sit in a subdued-sunlike location but perhaps being the small one it needed more sun than it was getting. Today I moved it to a window sill where it gets morning light only, though it’s chilly in the window this time of year. If sunlight can’t be what it needs I’ll put it back in the subdued-light location with the others, I’m dubious the sill is a good spot though I felt i had to try something. It was transplanted into a prettier next-size-up pot over a year ago. It’s already rootbound again, I know because today I turned it upside down to slide it momentarily out of the pot to see if there was something wrong with the roots that could be killing that leaf. Might not have been the smartest thing to unpot it for that moment, didn’t quite know what I was looking for anyway. I could detect nothing wrong with the roots by mere glance, & slipped it back into its pot not too horribly disturbed I hoped. MAYBE the soil was too dry but in past years that hasn’t mattered in winter. Oh, one thing else that is sort of weird but probably nothing important, when I popped it out of the pot for a second & it was upside down in my hand, I got a couple stickers off it in my fingers which was rather startling. I could ALMOST swear it never had cactus stickers on it before, but it now has very un-epi-like really sharp cactus stickers growing a little ways up from the crown & at some of the bloom-site dents the name of which I just forgot. Anyone have enough knowledge of epis that you can tell me if I should kiss that leaf goodby & just remove it now, or wait to see if it turns back to green in spring, or should I consider it the first sign of something that needs greater attending to, or what?? That old leaf never bloomed, only younger ones bloomed, but it has been my favorite leaf on the plant anyway, because it was so tough & thick & scary. I will be sorry if it has to be removed, but relieved if that’s for sure the worst it needs. -paghat — Visit the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.angelfire.com/grrl/paghat/gardenhome.html#top

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve an epi which right now, in the midst of its winter sleep, is losing the green of its oldest central leaf (headed toward a dirty yellow), & changing its physical texture to a bit wrinkly instead of smooth. Its an old plant but not large, only that one leaf is a foot tall, plus many stubbier leaves eight to ten inches. Nothing in its environment has changed that I’m aware of, & several other epis, most of them much larger, have never been even a tiny problem. But it sure looks like that one old leaf from a long-ago cutting is dying. The younger leaves don’t appear to be effected — so far. It MIGHT not have been getting enough sun because there were bigger epis surrounding it. They all sit in a subdued-sunlike location but perhaps being the small one it needed more sun than it was getting. Today I moved it to a window sill where it gets morning light only, though it’s chilly in the window this time of year. If sunlight can’t be what it needs I’ll put it back in the subdued-light location with the others, I’m dubious the sill is a good spot though I felt i had to try something. It was transplanted into a prettier next-size-up pot over a year ago. It’s already rootbound again, I know because today I turned it upside down to slide it momentarily out of the pot to see if there was something wrong with the roots that could be killing that leaf. Might not have been the smartest thing to unpot it for that moment, didn’t quite know what I was looking for anyway. I could detect nothing wrong with the roots by mere glance, & slipped it back into its pot not too horribly disturbed I hoped. MAYBE the soil was too dry but in past years that hasn’t mattered in winter. Oh, one thing else that is sort of weird but probably nothing important, when I popped it out of the pot for a second & it was upside down in my hand, I got a couple stickers off it in my fingers which was rather startling. I could ALMOST swear it never had cactus stickers on it before, but it now has very un-epi-like really sharp cactus stickers growing a little ways up from the crown & at some of the bloom-site dents the name of which I just forgot. Anyone have enough knowledge of epis that you can tell me if I should kiss that leaf goodby & just remove it now, or wait to see if it turns back to green in spring, or should I consider it the first sign of something that needs greater attending to, or what?? That old leaf never bloomed, only younger ones bloomed, but it has been my favorite leaf on the plant anyway, because it was so tough & thick & scary. I will be sorry if it has to be removed, but relieved if that’s for sure the worst it needs. -paghat Visit the Garden of Paghat the Ratgirl: http://www.angelfire.com/grrl/paghat/gardenhome.html#top

I’ve raised numerous epis over the past twenty-five years but never a Night Blooming Ceresus. However, my experience with regular epis has made me aware of the following: 1. Epis do not like to be transplanted into step-up pots. Whenever I’ve replanted in larger pots, I get a lot of vegetative grow with a lot of stickers on it with few or no blossoms. They perform much better and seem happier (bloom) when they are so root bound that one has to use a knife to take them out of their pot. I’ve had them thrive in pots with soil? so hard that there was not give to it. BTW, they seem to prefer clay pots. 2. Full inside sun in the winter and bright outside shade in the summer make them happy, if blooming is any indication. (Mine start blooming inside in April and continue outside through July.) 3. Water is important. Unlike regular cacti they thrive under moist conditions because they are a jungle plant. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. If you do, the leaves will become dry and shriveled with brown indented edges. I’ve never found wet feet to be a problem. 4. I fertilize every couple of months at full strength with a high phosphorus fertilizer such as Green Light Super Bloom (12-55-6). 5. Contrary to what gurus in various books tell you, epis don’t react negatively to cool conditions. Mine were far better bloomers outside in zone 3 than they are in zone 6. John

Response:

If by "leaves" you mean the flattened leaf-like stems, you probably have Epiphyllun oxypetalum. http://www.angelfire.com/ct3/epiphyllum/Slide_Shows/Oxypetalum_9596/0… Sounds like you have already mastered its care. It is an easy to grow plant that quickly grows too large.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This plant was given to me when very small so I don’t know much about it. I would say it is a sprawler.  I have it in a pot and it has grown a lot and probably needs some support of some type about now.  It has very broad flat leaves.  It always reminds me of the cactus that has the round flat sections all joined together only it’s leaves are long and slender and flatter. The name "Night Blooming Cereus" is given to a wide variety of night blooming Cactaceae. Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Peniocereus greggii, Nyctocereus serpentinus, Hylocereus undatus, Cereus hildmannianus (Cereus peruvianus of the trade), Acanthocereus pentagonus, They range in form from candelabriform shrubs, sprawlers, vines and epiphytes. Which one is yours? I have a Night Blooming Cereus and I am wondering what light, sun and such would be best growing conditions for this plant?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The name "Night Blooming Cereus" is given to a wide variety of night blooming Cactaceae. Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Peniocereus greggii, Nyctocereus serpentinus, Hylocereus undatus, Cereus hildmannianus (Cereus peruvianus of the trade), Acanthocereus pentagonus, They range in form from candelabriform shrubs, sprawlers, vines and epiphytes. Which one is yours?

None of these look like the houseplant that I have been told (apparently incorrectly) is a night blooming cereus.  The plant I am thinking of has thick, dark green, semi-glossy, pointed elongate oval leaves which are around 3-4" long.  It produces a flower which is pale pink, quite large, about 3-4" in diameter (seems to be a bunch of smaller flowers arranged in a tight rosette), and extremely fragrant. The little flowers don’t exactly have petals; they’re sort of hard and plasticky looking, and IIRC hexagonal or pentagonal in shape.  The fragrance is distinctive and so strong that it can be smelled throughout the house. My mother had this plant. I’ve been searching for it for a while. Suggestions for names? Krista — http://www.stumptuous.com/weights.html mistresskrista at home.com

Response:

Who are you? You’re not the one who asked the original question.

Yeah, I butted in. It turned out the plant in question was Epiphyllum oxypetalum after all. If your plant is leafy and night blooming, it is not in the Cactaceae. You might have a Hoya, a member of the Milkweed family (Asclepiadaceae).

Nice work; I looked it up and you were right.  Thanks. Krista — http://www.stumptuous.com/weights.html mistresskrista at home.com

Response:

Who are you? You’re not the one who asked the original question. It turned out the plant in question was Epiphyllum oxypetalum after all. If your plant is leafy and night blooming, it is not in the Cactaceae. You might have a Hoya, a member of the Milkweed family (Asclepiadaceae).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The name "Night Blooming Cereus" is given to a wide variety of night blooming Cactaceae. Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Peniocereus greggii, Nyctocereus serpentinus, Hylocereus undatus, Cereus hildmannianus (Cereus peruvianus of the trade), Acanthocereus pentagonus, They range in form from candelabriform shrubs, sprawlers, vines and epiphytes. Which one is yours? None of these look like the houseplant that I have been told (apparently incorrectly) is a night blooming cereus.  The plant I am thinking of has thick, dark green, semi-glossy, pointed elongate oval leaves which are around 3-4" long.  It produces a flower which is pale pink, quite large, about 3-4" in diameter (seems to be a bunch of smaller flowers arranged in a tight rosette), and extremely fragrant. The little flowers don’t exactly have petals; they’re sort of hard and plasticky looking, and IIRC hexagonal or pentagonal in shape.  The fragrance is distinctive and so strong that it can be smelled throughout the house. My mother had this plant. I’ve been searching for it for a while. Suggestions for names? Krista — http://www.stumptuous.com/weights.html mistresskrista at home.com

Response:

This plant was given to me when very small so I don’t know much about it.  I would say it is a sprawler.  I have it in a pot and it has grown a lot and probably needs some support of some type about now.  It has very broad flat leaves.  It always reminds me of the cactus that has the round flat sections all joined together only it’s leaves are long and slender and flatter.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The name "Night Blooming Cereus" is given to a wide variety of night blooming Cactaceae. Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Peniocereus greggii, Nyctocereus serpentinus, Hylocereus undatus, Cereus hildmannianus (Cereus peruvianus of the trade), Acanthocereus pentagonus, They range in form from candelabriform shrubs, sprawlers, vines and epiphytes. Which one is yours? I have a Night Blooming Cereus and I am wondering what light, sun and such would be best growing conditions for this plant?

Response:

I have a Night Blooming Cereus and I am wondering what light, sun and such would be best growing conditions for this plant?

Response:

The name "Night Blooming Cereus" is given to a wide variety of night blooming Cactaceae. Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Peniocereus greggii, Nyctocereus serpentinus, Hylocereus undatus, Cereus hildmannianus (Cereus peruvianus of the trade), Acanthocereus pentagonus, They range in form from candelabriform shrubs, sprawlers, vines and epiphytes. Which one is yours?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a Night Blooming Cereus and I am wondering what light, sun and such would be best growing conditions for this plant?

Response:

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