The Orchid Garden

Those Wonderful Iris!

Question:

Me, too, Laura!  I have three plantings of Siberian iris, one new this spring (established nursery plant) and two mail order plants put in the ground in the fall of 1991.  No blooms.  Mine are in the shade (light shade, I’d say) and our soil is rather dry, but I have been watering to the minimal "inch per week" most things need…  I know siberians fvor moist soil, but I wouldn’t have planted them in the first place if things I’d read hadn’t suggested that they would do ok in my conditions. So, any iris experts want to offer advice?  I have strategically placed these by big rocks in my yard for the visual contrast, but if they only way they will bloom is in full sum, I guess I can move them. Sherry

Well, I’m not an expert, but I see a couple possible problems.  First, they need to be in the sun – at least half a day of full sun, but all day is better. Fertilization:  Spring and Fall, and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. Lots of iris dealers sell special Spring and Fall formulas.  Iris, especially the tall bearded ones, are "heavy feeders."  Before you plant them, it is a good idea to mix some fertilizer right into the soil. Manure is good (composted, not fresh) too.  I don’t believe they are extremely picky about pH, but avoid really acid soil.

Response:

Fertilization:  Spring and Fall, and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. Lots of iris dealers sell special Spring and Fall formulas.  Iris, especially the tall bearded ones, are "heavy feeders."  Before you plant them, it is a good idea to mix some fertilizer right into the soil. Manure is good (composted, not fresh) too.  I don’t believe they are extremely picky about pH, but avoid really acid soil.

** I’d like to expand upon a couple of Bob’s comments, mainly in the idea of differentiating between types of irises, because that really does make a difference in some of these areas.  The real heavy feeders in the iris family are the Louisianas, and to a lesser extent the Japanese; the others like a little balanced food, but they willfood but do great with not much.  Most iris do appreciate some composted manure in the soil, but be careful not to overdo it in some climates with beardeds or you will be encouraging rot.  Bearded iris don’t like really acid soil, but Siberians and Japanese and Louisianas love it and won’t do well in neutral soil–a pH of 5.8 is a good target that will keep many of these beardless types happy.  All of these like lots of sun, and very few irises don’t, but there are some like I. cristata and I. tectorum that do prefer partial shade.                         Splitting hairs and dividing irises, –Jim — Jim Wilson, Instructional Technology Center, University of Delaware

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Could some kind soul tell me how to prune a mulberry tree that is coming up in the middle of our overgrown lilac hedge? It is large, about 10-15′ high, and has just lately become visible and produced fruit, these past 2 years. Should I just lop the top off? How big will it get? Do I have to cover it to get fruit from the birds?

Please don’t torture it by cutting off the top.  It will damage the health of the poor beast, make it ugly, and won’t reduce it’s total vertical growth by much.  The mulberry tree I grew up with in St. Louis never got much higher than the top of the garage, and was never pruned at all.  Your mileage may vary. Beautiful tree, wonderful fruit.  The adults hated it; the juice makes a great permanent die, and us kids liked to experiment with it – hey ma, look at this great new color for the curtains!  I’d love to have one again. Allyn Weaks

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Also, I have heard there is an orchid e-mailing list.  However, I have yet to find out whom to contact to subscribe.  If any other orchid growers out there know about the list, please let me know.  Thanks.

        I want to know too!!!! Don’t give up hope.  Orchids can be surprisingly tough.  I slipped while cutting a spent flower spike off one of my Phaelenopsis, and sliced the entire top of the plant off.  It survived and eventually put out new growth.

        What where you using, a chainsaw?  Try pruning shears….                         *Megagrin* – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Chuck Linsley but if you can find a better path, I’d love to find out about it.

Response:

| Don’t give up hope.  Orchids can be surprisingly tough.  I slipped while | cutting a spent flower spike off one of my Phaelenopsis, and sliced the | entire top of the plant off.  It survived and eventually put out new growth. | |   What where you using, a chainsaw?  Try pruning shears…. |                   *Megagrin* No, single-edged razor blade.  Use it once and throw it away.  Some people use shears and sterilize them with a propane torch between plants, but I don’t trust that unless you get them so hot you damage the shears, and razor blades are cheap.  All this fuss it to prevent spreading diseases, especially virus. — Chuck Linsley but if you can find a better path, I’d love to find out about it.

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| | I received a phaleonopsis (sp?) orchid as a gift and one of the leaves | didn’t survive the trip.  I seemed to have overwatered it and the other leaf | is completely yellow.  The orchid and its giver mean a lot to me.  How can I | save it?? It’s hard to say without more info.  What do you mean, "one of the leaves didn’t survive the trip," it broke off in handling?  Does it only have the one (yellow) leaf left?  How long has it been yellow, and is there any sign of rot?  How bright is the light where you have it?  Perhaps most importantly, can you see any of the roots, and if so, what color are they, green or brown? On the subject of roots, what is it potted in (most likely ground fir bark or sphagnum moss), and how big is the pot compared to the size of the plant? When was it last repotted? Overwatering is one of the fastest ways to kill any orchid.  A general rule for watering orchids is "When in doubt, don’t."  Most orchids will survive underwatering better than continual overwatering — doesn’t mean they like it, but it’s much less harmful. Phaelenopsis like to be a little moister than some other kinds of orchids, normally not quite drying out completely (they don’t have the water storage pseudo-bulbs that many other orchids have), but if yours is suffering from overwatering, it’s probably better to keep it a bit on the dry side. Phaelenopsis (and many other orchid) roots normally like lots of air, and will commonly grow around the top, or even over the edge of the pot.  It is ok if all the roots grow down into the pot, but it is easier to diagnose the plant’s condition if you can see at least some of the roots.  Healthy roots should be green, covered with a thick membrane which is gray or white when it’s dry, and which turns more transparent when it’s moist, allowing the green to show through more.  If all the roots you can see (if you can see any) are brown and rotten, you have definitely been overwatering.  If at least some of the roots are green and healthy, your plant has a pretty good chance of recovery; if there are no healthy roots, well, you can try and save it, but I wouldn’t get my hopes up. How bright is the light where you have the plant?  Sunburn can also cause leaves to turn yellow, white or black.  If the leaf surface looks blistered, it is sunburned.  More severe sunburn turns the leave white, thin and dry, with a black border around the white area.  Phaelenopsis like fairly bright, but definitely filtered light.  Direct sun will burn them very quickly. What condition is the potting medium in, whether it’s bark, sphagnum or something else?  The medium should be very porous, to allow good air circulation to the roots.  If it is mushy, or if it has been more than two years since it has been repotted (many growers write the potting date on the tag), you should probably repot it, especially if the roots are rotting.  Potting medium which is breaking down holds more water, and makes it easier to overwater, as well as not allowing free air circulation.   I recommend that you get a good book on orchid care, or contact your local orchid society.  Both the Sunset and Ortho books on orchids are pretty good, and should be fairly easy to find.  Also excellent, but more expensive and probably a little harder to find, is _Home_Orchid_Growing_, by Rebecca Northen. Your local orchid society has people who are not only undoubtedly far more knowledgeble than I, but can actually see your plant and evaluate its condition based on their observation, rather than my speculation.  They may also have a library of orchid care books you can use.  If you can’t find your local society, contact the American Orchid Society in West Palm Beach, Florida (I think, I can get the exact address and phone if you need it), and they can refer you to a local club. Also, I have heard there is an orchid e-mailing list.  However, I have yet to find out whom to contact to subscribe.  If any other orchid growers out there know about the list, please let me know.  Thanks. Don’t give up hope.  Orchids can be surprisingly tough.  I slipped while cutting a spent flower spike off one of my Phaelenopsis, and sliced the entire top of the plant off.  It survived and eventually put out new growth. — Chuck Linsley but if you can find a better path, I’d love to find out about it.

Response:

Most of the leading hybridizers in Japan do now register their good stuff with AIS, but JI hybridizing is a widespread hobby there with some lines passed down through families and lots of traditions associated with them.

Traditions? Thats sounds interesting. I tried to imagine what this could be: something like a tea ceremony at the peak of blooming in little back yard gardens? Dividing of the corms only by the grandfather/mother? Do you have an example of what an japanese iris tradition is? john horvath mail: Bull, MA30-824A, 300 Concord Rd, Billerica, MA 01821

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Traditions? Thats sounds interesting. I tried to imagine what this could be: something like a tea ceremony at the peak of blooming in little back yard gardens? Dividing of the corms only by the grandfather/mother? Do you have an example of what an japanese iris tradition is?

**** At bloom time, the Japanese bring potted plants indoors for a ceremonial observance of flowering.  They declare that the flowers "act" for three days, constantly changing shape until fully opened. From the earliest times, one type was used as a plant of good omen. Its fragrant leaves are put into the bath and hung in temples and houses.  At the Boys’ Festival or Feast of the Flags, on the fifth day of the fifth month, this type and I. kampferi are hung at the eaves of houses and put in the public baths and in the rice wine or sake. [These have been paraphrased from _The World of Irises_ by Bee Warburton and Melba Hamblen.  A good book on JI in particular is _The Japanese Iris_ edited by Currier McEwen.] john horvath mail: Bull, MA30-824A, 300 Concord Rd, Billerica, MA 01821

– Jim Wilson, Instructional Technology Center, University of Delaware

Response:

Could some kind soul tell me how to prune a mulberry tree that is coming up in the middle of our overgrown lilac hedge? It is large, about 10-15′ high, and has just lately become visible and produced fruit, these past 2 years. Should I just lop the top off? How big will it get? Do I have to cover it to get fruit from the birds? Judith Reed

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How deeply do I need to plant a grafted rosebush, to prevent it from growing out from below the graft??? I recently planted a David Austin Heritage bush, bareroot, and there was some confusing info about planting. Should the soil come above the graft, or stop below it? What should I do to it in the winter to prevent the top from dying, leaving me with just the roots? I’m in zone 4-5. Thanks! Judith Reed

Response:

Me, too, Laura!  I have three plantings of Siberian iris, one new this spring (established nursery plant) and two mail order plants put in the ground in the fall of 1991.  No blooms.  Mine are in the shade (light shade, I’d say) and our soil is rather dry, but I have been watering to the minimal "inch per week" most things need…  I know siberians fvor moist soil, but I wouldn’t have planted them in the first place if things I’d read hadn’t suggested that they would do ok in my conditions. So, any iris experts want to offer advice?  I have strategically placed these by big rocks in my yard for the visual contrast, but if they only way they will bloom is in full sum, I guess I can move them. Sherry

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Me, too, Laura!  I have three plantings of Siberian iris, one new this spring (established nursery plant) and two mail order plants put in the ground in the fall of 1991.  No blooms.  Mine are in the shade (light shade, I’d say) and our soil is rather dry, but I have been watering to the minimal "inch per week" most things need…  I know siberians fvor moist soil, but I wouldn’t have planted them in the first place if things I’d read hadn’t suggested that they would do ok in my conditions. So, any iris experts want to offer advice?  I have strategically placed these by big rocks in my yard for the visual contrast, but if they only way they will bloom is in full sum, I guess I can move them. Sherry

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I thought there were naming rules for cultivars, for example cultivars named for people must be limited to first and last name.  Do they bend the rules for Japanese irises?

It really is hard to control what people name things.  The American Iris Society does very well for varieties registered here, and has adopted various name-length conventions over the years, but there is nothing to require people, especially international hybridizers, to register with AIS. It might be that the examples you gave are translations of Japanese names, which may in turn be registered.  The official (AIS official, that is) JI checklist contains lots of registrations of Japanese names and English names, but the English ones are things like Prairie Twilight rather than the longer sort that you found.  Most of the leading hybridizers in Japan do now register their good stuff with AIS, but JI hybridizing is a widespread hobby there with some lines passed down through families and lots of traditions associated with them. — Jim Wilson, Instructional Technology Center, University of Delaware

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(lines omitted) If you like these, then the next thing you need are some Japanese Iris. They have larger flower petals that they hold out flat, parallel (lines omitted)

Japanese irises are on my list of plants to acquire (as soon as I have room).  I was looking through a catalogue last year and they looked great, but the most intriguing aspect was their names–names like "virgin walking in moonlight", or "dancing in evening thunderstorm". I thought there were naming rules for cultivars, for example cultivars named for people must be limited to first and last name.  Do they bend the rules for Japanese irises? Dave Daulton

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| Me, too, Laura!  I have three plantings of Siberian iris, one new this spring | (established nursery plant) and two mail order plants put in the ground in | the fall of 1991.  No blooms.  Mine are in the shade (light shade, I’d say) | and our soil is rather dry, but I have been watering to the minimal "inch per | week" most things need…  I know siberians fvor moist soil, but I wouldn’t | have planted them in the first place if things I’d read hadn’t suggested that | they would do ok in my conditions. | | So, any iris experts want to offer advice?  I have strategically placed these | by big rocks in my yard for the visual contrast, but if they only way they | will bloom is in full sum, I guess I can move them. | | Sherry | | I don’t really consider myself an expert but I have grown Siberian Iris for a couple of years.  They do prefer sun.  I have mine in a couple of spots that get at least a half day of sun.  One planting is just starting to bloom as are my bearded iris. (I transplanted that planting last summer)  The other planting is a little behind the first.  It’s also gets less sun. (I’m planning on moving it this year, but then thats what I have said for 2 years now.)  They do seem to like a lot of water, much like astilbe. | |   Joanne Kube-Harderwijk               Empros Power Systems Control |   Phone – (612) 553-4765               Plymouth, Mn. 55441-3694 |              A Division of Siemens Energy and Automation |   |   I am not a spokeman for my employer. |   "I know nothing, nothing…" – Sargeant Schultz

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I received a phaleonopsis (sp?) orchid as a gift and one of the leaves didn’t survive the trip.  I seemed to have overwatered it and the other leaf is completely yellow.  The orchid and its giver mean a lot to me.  How can I save it?? Karla Hagan-Ingram

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 I have some iris that I got from a co-worker’s garden. They are in their third spring now, and have yet to bloom! What am I doing wrong???? I have the root corm right at the surface, and they receive about 5 hours of sun. Do they require full sun to bloom??? The leaves grown each year, but no flowers. If they need to be moved, can I do that now? Thanks. Judith Reed

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What blooms next, after the peonies that are scenting the side yard right now?  It looks like a blooming lull until the daylilies and the bulb lilies kick in.

Out here in N. CA, penstemon and lavender are blooming their heads off.

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Iris season is almost over here in East Central Illinois.  The cool weather seemed to prolong the blooming season; they were really lovely this year.  I planted Siberian Iris last fall, and they came through with flying colors: white, gold, pruple. Aren’t they supposed to bloom first, then the bearded?  They were all in bloom at the same time, maybe due to the cool weather?  I also planted English Iris, thinking they were to bloom right after the tall bearded, but so far, nothing.

If you like these, then the next thing you need are some Japanese Iris. They have larger flower petals that they hold out flat, parallel to the ground. Its gives me an impression that they are balancing. Its really amazing that they are another completely different Iris from the ones you mention, that are also just as interesting. The Japanese Iris bloom later, in early July for me (here in MA). cheers john horvath mail: Bull, MA30-824A, 300 Concord Rd, Billerica, MA 01821

Response:

Iris season is almost over here in East Central Illinois.  The cool weather seemed to prolong the blooming season; they were really lovely this year.  I planted Siberian Iris last fall, and they came through with flying colors: white, gold, pruple. Aren’t they supposed to bloom first, then the bearded?  They were all in bloom at the same time, maybe due to the cool weather?  I also planted English Iris, thinking they were to bloom right after the tall bearded, but so far, nothing. What blooms next, after the peonies that are scenting the side yard right now?  It looks like a blooming lull until the daylilies and the bulb lilies kick in. I love watching the parade of colors in my perennial border! (Unfortunately, the weather has been great for that nasty crab grass, too . . .) —                  "Honk if you love peace and quiet!"

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Iris season is almost over here in East Central Illinois.  The cool weather seemed to prolong the blooming season; they were really lovely this year.  I planted Siberian Iris last fall, and they came through with flying colors: white, gold, pruple. Aren’t they supposed to bloom first, then the bearded?  They were all in bloom at the same time, maybe due to the cool weather?  I also planted English Iris, thinking they were to bloom right after the tall bearded, but so far, nothing.

You’re breaking my heart! I have white and purple Siberian Iris, planted last spring that *still* haven’t bloomed. I was disappointed, but not surprised that I got no flowers last year, but none this year is too much to bear! Anyone got any words of comfort for me? They’re planted in full sun, well drained soil and have been very lightly fertilized. I’ve gotten plenty of leaves, especially from the purple one, but nothing that looks like a flower stem. We, like the rest of the East Coast, got socked by that huge snowstorm in mid-March; could that be delaying them or is that just wishful thinking on my part? Any suggestions appreciated! Laura

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