The Orchid Garden

Flasking light requirements?

Question:

        Whilst hiding behind a hard copy of 29 CFR, Jeffrey Kirby :       You have to put it under your pillow, dear fellow; how do you : expect the lab fairy to give you your quarter! Would that be the pillow on my lab cot or am I allowed to take the glass home? Does EH&S (Environmental Health and Safety) frown on that sort of behavior?

        It must be at home, and EH&S frowns on ALL sorts of behavior. Help keep yourself out of trouble from the safety dudes, and don’t do any work at all. Helps cut down on accidents. I know G&B used to sell Magenta boxes – is that what you’re referring to or have they switched over to the similar-to-Magenta box design (the ones with round, screw-on lids)? (Magenta boxes are those square based, square topped, polycarb boxes with soft plastic lids that just press on)

        Sigma still sells Magentas, but I mean the similar-to-Magenta in that they have the lid you describe. Difficult to get on and off, but it works eventually. Does anyone use petri dishes for seed sowing (replate to larger glassware when needed)? A lot less space, lot easier to replate, lot less media, you can get bags of sterile plastic ones cheap, and they make neat melted formations when you autoclave them when you’re done (because the fungal contamination killed your plants and we all know you autoclave fungi and bacteria before tossing the media due to the possible toxicity, or maybe it’s to get revenge on them).

        I’ve tried the 25 mm diameter culture tubes from Sigma, but these never worked very well with me. Even when using the lids THEN capping them with aluminum foil, contamination was 50% even when I didn’t open them! Ridiculous.         Rob (Future Dr. Starving PhD) mentioned how his paphs may take 9-12 months to germinate. I was just curious as to when people throw out their flasks; I’ve always chucked flasks of tropical epiphytic species at 3 months if there are no signs of life. Too early? Or am I wasting time after 8 weeks?         Data point for the day: average weight of 324 Eulophia alta seeds = 1.44 micrograms per seed.         -AJHicks         Orchid Seedbank Project         Socorro, NM

Response:

Rob (Dr. Rob, but don’t make a federal case of it)

Congratulations!  Time to change that .sig file, eh? Where are you gonna do your (first) postdoc? cheers,        Nick Nicholas Plummer http://www.duke.edu/~nplummer/

Response:

Does anyone use petri dishes for seed sowing (replate to larger glassware when needed)? A lot less space, lot easier to replate, lot less media, you can get bags of sterile plastic ones cheap, and they make neat melted formations when you autoclave them when you’re done (because the fungal contamination killed your plants and we all know you autoclave fungi and bacteria before tossing the media due to the possible toxicity, or maybe it’s to get revenge on them).

        Two items.  1) I have in the past autoclaved large batches (4L) of media and then dispensed (laboriously) to sterile yet non autoclavable containers.  It works, not a time saver though.         2) Petri dishes.  Thought about it.  Problem for me is that sometimes Paphs can take 9 months to a year to germinate.  Petri dishes dry out to damn fast.  You can get glass petri dishes and autoclave them directly, might be an option for things that germinate quickly (weedy cattleyas and dendrobiums maybe).  Would be cheaper in the long haul.  Harder to seal petri dishes as well, you can use parafilm, but it tends to degrade over time and you may end up retaping more often than it is worth.  If you don’t seal them, they will dry out in a matter of weeks, not months.  Would be a dream to replate out of, though! Rob (Dr. Rob, but don’t make a federal case of it)  Rob’s rules to live by:                        |     (1) There is always room for one more orchid. |   (2) There is no rule 2.                       | Future starving PhD.    (2a) When one has insufficient credit to buy |  

Response:

: Autoclavable containers are more easily reused, though, and they are : often recyclable (although I’ve never figured out where broken lab : glassware goes after the broken glassware box since I’ve seen it stay in : the box for years on end).             : :       Jeffrey! :       You have to put it under your pillow, dear fellow; how do you : expect the lab fairy to give you your quarter! Would that be the pillow on my lab cot or am I allowed to take the glass home? Does EH&S (Environmental Health and Safety) frown on that sort of behavior? :       I’ve been toying with a handful of the polycarbonate containers : that G&B sells; they’re pretty good, but it’s tough to get the protocorms : out for replate. They’re probably best _as_ replate flasks, and not for : seed sowing. Their square shape is ideal for space maximization, if space : is an issue. I know G&B used to sell Magenta boxes – is that what you’re referring to or have they switched over to the similar-to-Magenta box design (the ones with round, screw-on lids)? (Magenta boxes are those square based, square topped, polycarb boxes with soft plastic lids that just press on) Does anyone use petri dishes for seed sowing (replate to larger glassware when needed)? A lot less space, lot easier to replate, lot less media, you can get bags of sterile plastic ones cheap, and they make neat melted formations when you autoclave them when you’re done (because the fungal contamination killed your plants and we all know you autoclave fungi and bacteria before tossing the media due to the possible toxicity, or maybe it’s to get revenge on them). -j Theres a .sig here…                                                         …really.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Autoclavable containers are more easily reused, though, and they are often recyclable (although I’ve never figured out where broken lab glassware goes after the broken glassware box since I’ve seen it stay in the box for years on end).         Jeffrey!         You have to put it under your pillow, dear fellow; how do you expect the lab fairy to give you your quarter!         Ob story:         We once had this girl who worked in the labs who, despite her immense aptitude with computers, was complete butterfingers with glassware, and knew it. Once she picked up the lid to our only glass vacuum desiccator, and the collar came off, dropping the lid to the floor, which served two purposes:         1) Exponentially increasing the number of component pieces for the lid         2) Breaking it beyond all possible repair         That was over a year ago, and we still have the pieces in the lab bucket. They’re next to a shattered Dewar, which was (thankfully) there before I ever arrived.         I’ve been toying with a handful of the polycarbonate containers that G&B sells; they’re pretty good, but it’s tough to get the protocorms out for replate. They’re probably best _as_ replate flasks, and not for seed sowing. Their square shape is ideal for space maximization, if space is an issue.         Other than said polycarbs, I use mason jars almost exclusively. I use pints, since they take up a lot less space, and I get about the same use out of them as quarts, and are much easier to replate. Canning jars are inexpensive, readily available, have good surface area maximization, and are easy to replate to and from.         If I had one complaint, it would be that they aren’t _quite_ square enough to sit still, or to evenly distribute the media for maximizing surface area.         -AJHicks         Orchid Seedbank Project         Socorro, NM

I still have about 100 Phytocons that need to be used. For those not familiar with them, they look like a semi clear cottage cheese container with a mouth about 6" across. They should be very easy to work with, stack, etc. Eventually I’ll get around to using them -Rod- Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/ Basic Culture CD-ROM: http://vengers.com/demo/cd.htm

Response:

Autoclavable containers are more easily reused, though, and they are often recyclable (although I’ve never figured out where broken lab glassware goes after the broken glassware box since I’ve seen it stay in the box for years on end).            

        Jeffrey!         You have to put it under your pillow, dear fellow; how do you expect the lab fairy to give you your quarter!         Ob story:         We once had this girl who worked in the labs who, despite her immense aptitude with computers, was complete butterfingers with glassware, and knew it. Once she picked up the lid to our only glass vacuum desiccator, and the collar came off, dropping the lid to the floor, which served two purposes:         1) Exponentially increasing the number of component pieces for the lid         2) Breaking it beyond all possible repair         That was over a year ago, and we still have the pieces in the lab bucket. They’re next to a shattered Dewar, which was (thankfully) there before I ever arrived.         I’ve been toying with a handful of the polycarbonate containers that G&B sells; they’re pretty good, but it’s tough to get the protocorms out for replate. They’re probably best _as_ replate flasks, and not for seed sowing. Their square shape is ideal for space maximization, if space is an issue.         Other than said polycarbs, I use mason jars almost exclusively. I use pints, since they take up a lot less space, and I get about the same use out of them as quarts, and are much easier to replate. Canning jars are inexpensive, readily available, have good surface area maximization, and are easy to replate to and from.         If I had one complaint, it would be that they aren’t _quite_ square enough to sit still, or to evenly distribute the media for maximizing surface area.         -AJHicks         Orchid Seedbank Project         Socorro, NM

Response:

       I’ve been toying with a handful of the polycarbonate containers that G&B sells; they’re pretty good, but it’s tough to get the protocorms out for replate. They’re probably best _as_ replate flasks, and not for seed sowing. Their square shape is ideal for space maximization, if space is an issue.

Has anyone used StarPac Bags for orchid replates? Keith — Keith Benson DVM Resident, Zoological Medicine University of California – Davis Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital www.geocities.com/rainforest/2011

Response:

: This was a query I had some time ago. OK so we can get : sterilised plastic containers that can’t be autoclaved, but : sterilised chemically. How then do we get sterile medium into : these containers. I must have missed something (as an : No problem, Malcolm. Sterilize your media and put the pan into the hood : to cool a bit. Start the hood, scrub up, pour the media into the : containers. For the few dozen of these we did as a test, the : contamination rate was zero. We replated flasklings into them after 5 : days and all are doing well after 6 months. Obviously autoclavable : containers would be better but such things are not usually disposable. Autoclavable containers are more easily reused, though, and they are often recyclable (although I’ve never figured out where broken lab glassware goes after the broken glassware box since I’ve seen it stay in the box for years on end). -j, of the deleted .sig file

Response:

We use 2 30w tubes per every 100 flasks, about 6" up. Seems to work very well.

Do you control the temperature? Regards, Malcolm.

Response:

We use 2 30w tubes per every 100 flasks, about 6" up. Seems to work very well. Do you control the temperature? Regards, Malcolm.

Malcolm, The room is sealed and has virtually no air movement unless the hood is running or the door is opened. This summer the temp in the lab never went above 80 as the room faces north. In the winter we only use a 250w spotlight to add some heat..that same northern exposure is frigid with a Colorado north wind. Last winter the temps never dropped below 70 at night and hung around 75 during the day. We do nothing to actively regulate the temps within a certain range. -Rod- Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/ Basic Culture CD-ROM: http://vengers.com/demo/cd.htm

Response:

Rod, What type of flasks to you use? Plastic or glass? Not that it matters, I’m just curious. We received some flasks the other day in 500ml glass. It should be a chore to get the guys out. They are Paph seedlings with hairy roots that cling together. It you use glass, do you have any advice on de-flasking? Thanks, Dan

Response:

Rod, What type of flasks to you use? Plastic or glass? Not that it matters, I’m just curious. We received some flasks the other day in 500ml glass. It should be a chore to get the guys out. They are Paph seedlings with hairy roots that cling together. It you use glass, do you have any advice on de-flasking? Thanks, Dan

Hi Marla, So far we’ve only used a few dozen plastic catheter containers in the plastic arena. All the rest are glass. The plastic containers are being used as mini flasks and are about 100ml in size I think. The glass we use varies, from 8 oz up to 32oz, the majority of which are canning jars. For deflasking we just wrap the flask in newspaper and rap the side of the base with a hammer (light blows) until it breaks. It’s just so much easier than fishing plants out. The plastic catheter containers, BTW, are not autoclavable. Those of you that work in hospitals and have access to jars like this need to sterilize them chemically. We used hydrogen peroxide. -Rod- Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/ Basic Culture CD-ROM: http://vengers.com/demo/cd.htm

Response:

The plastic catheter containers, BTW, are not autoclavable. Those of you that work in hospitals and have access to jars like this need to sterilize them chemically. We used hydrogen peroxide. -Rod-

This was a query I had some time ago. OK so we can get sterilised plastic containers that can’t be autoclaved, but sterilised chemically. How then do we get sterile medium into these containers. I must have missed something (as an unemployed research scientist not to see the obvious is a very humbling experience). Malcolm.

Response:

The plastic catheter containers, BTW, are not autoclavable. Those of you that work in hospitals and have access to jars like this need to sterilize them chemically. We used hydrogen peroxide. -Rod- This was a query I had some time ago. OK so we can get sterilised plastic containers that can’t be autoclaved, but sterilised chemically. How then do we get sterile medium into these containers. I must have missed something (as an unemployed research scientist not to see the obvious is a very humbling experience). Malcolm.

No problem, Malcolm. Sterilize your media and put the pan into the hood to cool a bit. Start the hood, scrub up, pour the media into the containers. For the few dozen of these we did as a test, the contamination rate was zero. We replated flasklings into them after 5 days and all are doing well after 6 months. Obviously autoclavable containers would be better but such things are not usually disposable. -Rod- Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/ Basic Culture CD-ROM: http://vengers.com/demo/cd.htm

Response:

        Malcom,     What I’m using is one 20 watt fluorescent tube per shelf in my setup. This provides enough light to illuminate a 24" x 16" shelf. Orchids in flasks don’t need that much light, so I think you’re safe with the energy saving tubes. I have the tubes approximately 10 cm from the tops of the flasks… 40/50 cm seems like quite a distance. I wouldn’t go any farther than 20/30 cm, but if it works for you…. do it!                             Sam

We use 2 30w tubes per every 100 flasks, about 6" up. Seems to work very well. -Rod- Venger’s Orchids Website http://www.vengers.com/ Basic Culture CD-ROM: http://vengers.com/demo/cd.htm

Response:

        Malcom,     What I’m using is one 20 watt fluorescent tube per shelf in my setup. This provides enough light to illuminate a 24" x 16" shelf. Orchids in flasks don’t need that much light, so I think you’re safe with the energy saving tubes. I have the tubes approximately 10 cm from the tops of the flasks… 40/50 cm seems like quite a distance. I wouldn’t go any farther than 20/30 cm, but if it works for you…. do it!                             Sam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am just about to reconstruct my flasking case. Up to now I have relied on natural day light. I now intend to use artificial light, but presently feeling a little insecure about my lack of information/experience in this area. I was given some time ago good results could be obtained from a fluorescent tube 40/50 cm above the flasks. I am presently thinking of using the energy saving lights (eg. 15 watt PL*electronic Philips, 900 lumens). I believe these are also fluorescent. My preference for using these is that I could construct a fairly compact tower unit without the expense of buying a number of fluorescent units. Anybody got any experience of using these. All constructive comments  would be most welcome. Regards, Malcolm.

– Sam’s Orchid’s: http://www.orchidcloset.com/orchids/sop.htm Chris’s Homepage: http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/Garden/6567/

Response:

I am just about to reconstruct my flasking case. Up to now I have relied on natural day light. I now intend to use artificial light, but presently feeling a little insecure about my lack of information/experience in this area. I was given some time ago good results could be obtained from a fluorescent tube 40/50 cm above the flasks. I am presently thinking of using the energy saving lights (eg. 15 watt PL*electronic Philips, 900 lumens). I believe these are also fluorescent. My preference for using these is that I could construct a fairly compact tower unit without the expense of buying a number of fluorescent units. Anybody got any experience of using these. All constructive comments  would be most welcome. Regards, Malcolm.

Response:

Filed under: Orchid Garden

Related Posts