The Orchid Garden » Phalaenopsis Orchid

Are orchid's delicate flowers?

admin — Sat, 12 Oct 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I use plain old fluorescent lights. I have used the lower part of a closet, hanging the lights from the clothes pole. OTOH, at my mothers I partitioned off a section of the basement and put in a "greenhouse" down there. My mother still uses it to start plants for spring. Ingrid Safe to assume you’re using grow lights in the basement? I have an unused room that I could probably convert. Definitely, something worth looking into. Larry, at this point seems to endure most of my fascinations with only mild grumbling. LOL, my daughter was home this weekend, I gave her a house plant I had divided to take back with her. Her boyfriend is already commenting about her growing "jungle". It’s in the genes, I told her to tell him he has no hope. LOL.

List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.net Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who’s to blame Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make.

Response:

That’s an interesting idea. Thanks. Carlotta

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I use plain old fluorescent lights. I have used the lower part of a closet, hanging the lights from the clothes pole. OTOH, at my mothers I partitioned off a section of the basement and put in a "greenhouse" down there. My mother still uses it to start plants for spring. Ingrid

Response:

Milwaukee, WI …. I dont have lots of room for orchids in living areas, and I got other stuff overwintering in the basement not to mention I can spray with abandon in the basement cause it is right over the drain. so I leave the non-bloomers down there where it is cooler and more humid than upstairs. then when they bloom they come upstairs where I can enjoy the flowers. frankly I am not thrilled with their foliage. but to keep em blooming I do put em into an east window. got no north facing windows. I think orchids are wonderful for winter bloomlessness …. Ingrid Ingrid, I don’t remember exactly where you are, somewhere on the east coast? My heavy garden energies are in the summer, but I need a few flowers to get me through the winter. Dry, forced, or amaryllis – hum…. could orchids be a possibility? So can you grow them in the more forced conditions and move them out when you need cheered up while they’re blooming? Carlotta

Response:

Safe to assume you’re using grow lights in the basement? I have an unused room that I could probably convert. Definitely, something worth looking into. Larry, at this point seems to endure most of my fascinations with only mild grumbling. LOL, my daughter was home this weekend, I gave her a house plant I had divided to take back with her. Her boyfriend is already commenting about her growing "jungle". It’s in the genes, I told her to tell him he has no hope. LOL. Carlotta

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Milwaukee, WI …. I dont have lots of room for orchids in living areas, and I got other stuff overwintering in the basement not to mention I can spray with abandon in the basement cause it is right over the drain. so I leave the non-bloomers down there where it is cooler and more humid than upstairs. then when they bloom they come upstairs where I can enjoy the flowers. frankly I am not thrilled with their foliage. but to keep em blooming I do put em into an east window. got no north facing windows. I think orchids are wonderful for winter bloomlessness …. Ingrid Ingrid, I don’t remember exactly where you are, somewhere on the east coast? My heavy garden energies are in the summer, but I need a few flowers to get me through the winter. Dry, forced, or amaryllis – hum…. could orchids be a possibility? So can you grow them in the more forced conditions and move them out when you need cheered up while they’re blooming? Carlotta List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.net Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who’s to blame Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make.

Response:

<< The only light I have that seems decent for growing plants is east windows and a couple of north windows. No south windows at all, and my west windows I keep curtained for privacy. What type of conditions do orchids need to survive? << Iowa zone 4/5 Your conditions are not suitable for orchids. Most of them need more light than you will have in an East window, and far more humidity than you will have in the house in the winter. If you really want to grow orchids, wall off a section of your basement with sheet plastic and install fluorescent or metal halide lights, fans, and humidifiers. Iris, Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40 "The trouble with people is not that they don’t know but that they know so much that ain’t so." Josh Billings (Henry Wheeler Shaw), 1818-1885

Response:

This statement is quite disingenuous, Iris…while there are orchids that would not do well in such conditions, there are indeed orchids that will do well. Phalaenopsis types (which are often the most common orchid available for sale) will grow and bloom happily in an east window, even with household humidity conditions…there might need to be some ammendment to humidity (such as a humidifier), but this is probably necessary for human comfort anyway if winters tend to run dry. —Prem www.premdesign.com

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – to keep the water from drooling all over wood work when watering. and it helps to spriz them with water now and then since lots of their roots end up outside the pot. there is a bit of standing water in the box under the egg crate, altho I have heard that even that isnt necessary. I stick a bunch of em together in the box maybe to help humidity, maybe competition when one blooms encourages the others to bloom as well. I really dont fuss with them .. I dont fertilize either, altho I think I really should once in a while. I think I will go with the slow release osmocote stuff. Ingrid

Ingrid, I don’t remember exactly where you are, somewhere on the east coast? My heavy garden energies are in the summer, but I need a few flowers to get me through the winter. Dry, forced, or amaryllis – hum…. could orchids be a possibility? So can you grow them in the more forced conditions and move them out when you need cheered up while they’re blooming? Carlotta

Response:

| | This statement is quite disingenuous, Iris…while there are orchids | that would not do well in such conditions, there are indeed orchids | that will do well. Phalaenopsis types (which are often the most | common orchid available for sale) will grow and bloom happily in | an east window, even with household humidity conditions…there | might need to be some ammendment to humidity (such as a humidifier), | but this is probably necessary for human comfort anyway if winters | tend to run dry. Quite. Anything that can survive UK winter light levels, even on a south-facing window ledge, isn’t going to have any trouble with an east window in the contiguous U.S.A. Admittedly, low humidity levels in winter aren’t exactly the problem that we have Regards, Nick Maclaren, University of Cambridge Computing Service, New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England. Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679

Response:

Actually… it was in Minnesota in an overheated apartment on the 3rd floor where I got hooked on orchids. I started in a fish tank, then built a simple orchid box .. just a box with that white egg crate stuff. I did have to use a humidifier cause I have skin that shrivels in dry air. In summer I built a sorta greenhouse out on my balcony for my plants and orchids. Ingrid Well, I do ‘do’ indoor plants quite a bit and I could never get an orchid to survive more than a few months when I lived in Minnesota and they *never* rebloomed for me. The combination of their light, humidity, and watering require- ments were just too much for me to manage during those long Minnesota months.

Response:

I heard someone on the radio describe orchids are being delicate flowers. They do not appear phyiscally delicate, although I think they are difficult to grow. What are other people’s opinion?

Here’s my experience: I put off owning orchids for years… I was afraid I would get addicted and want to do little else. I’d end up building a giant lathe house and abandoning all other species that I’ve put so much time and care into. Eventually I relented of this attitude, joined an orchid of the month club, and began collecting. Oh, how I fussed over them… soaking in the ferts and getting the light just right, and bringing them indoors in the winter, etc. Well- they performed abysmally… ugly scraggily pain-in-the-kiester nothings hanging in my trees- they never bloomed, never showed me any gratitude at all for the $$ I had invested in them and the care they "required". I got over it one day and threw them all in the ComposTumbler. About a week later I had second thoughts and dug them out… I tied each one into a tree, where they now bloom profusely with very little supplemental feeding or care. Storms, cold snaps- haven’t lost a one yet and the blooming is out of this world. Go figure. — Toni Carroll Sunny South Florida Zone 10

Response:

I heard someone on the radio describe orchids are being delicate flowers. They do not appear phyiscally delicate, although I think they are difficult to grow. What are other people’s opinion? Thanks Tom

Response:

It depends on the orchid, but I sure wouldn’t call a phalaenopsis or paphiopedilum flower that can last 2 to 3 months delicate. And those orchids aren’t particularly difficult to grow either. deg

Response:

Phaels are easy, as are the phael like dendrobiums and the cymbidiums and the catts. I have no luck with paphs, miltonia. Angaecum are medium as are zygopedalum and vandas and that other one like it. need more light. I grow most of em in the basement under lights in winter, in shade in the summer. but forget cymbs if you dont have some cold weather. INgrid – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I heard someone on the radio describe orchids are being delicate flowers. They do not appear phyiscally delicate, although I think they are difficult to grow. What are other people’s opinion? Thanks Tom It depends on the orchid, but I sure wouldn’t call a phalaenopsis or paphiopedilum flower that can last 2 to 3 months delicate. And those orchids aren’t particularly difficult to grow either. deg

Response:

<< I heard someone on the radio describe orchids are being delicate flowers. When was the last time you heard really accurate information on the radio? Most of the common orchids are not delicate at all, but they require certain conditions different from ordinary houseplants. Iris, Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40 "The trouble with people is not that they don’t know but that they know so much that ain’t so." Josh Billings (Henry Wheeler Shaw), 1818-1885

Response:

north and east windows are superb for Phaels… which also have the flowers that bloom for months. I use a box of some kind with that white egg crating inside to keep the plants out of water. Ingrid

Well, it looks like I need to do some research before I’m tempted enough to buy. I do only have north and east windows that are suitable for plants. What is the purpose of the box of some kind? Carlotta

Response:

<< I got over it one day and threw them all in the ComposTumbler. About a week later I had second thoughts and dug them out… I tied each one into a tree, where they now bloom profusely with very little supplemental feeding or care. Storms, cold snaps- haven’t lost a one yet and the blooming is out of this world. Go figure. Either they respond to Tough Love or they’re masochists at heart….er, stamen? zemedelec

Response:

to keep the water from drooling all over wood work when watering. and it helps to spriz them with water now and then since lots of their roots end up outside the pot. there is a bit of standing water in the box under the egg crate, altho I have heard that even that isnt necessary. I stick a bunch of em together in the box maybe to help humidity, maybe competition when one blooms encourages the others to bloom as well. I really dont fuss with them .. I dont fertilize either, altho I think I really should once in a while. I think I will go with the slow release osmocote stuff. Ingrid – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – north and east windows are superb for Phaels… which also have the flowers that bloom for months. I use a box of some kind with that white egg crating inside to keep the plants out of water. Ingrid Well, it looks like I need to do some research before I’m tempted enough to buy. I do only have north and east windows that are suitable for plants. What is the purpose of the box of some kind? Carlotta

Response:

north and east windows are superb for Phaels… which also have the flowers that bloom for months. I use a box of some kind with that white egg crating inside to keep the plants out of water. As long as you have some kind of humidifier in the house they are going to do fine. I have Goldfish tanks.. plenty of humidity without it actually dripping down the windows. I put mine in the basment, get em blooming and then bring them upstairs until the flowers finally go. nice thing about orchids.. can go away for a month and the plant doesnt croak. lots of sites online. and home despot has some really nice orchids for not much money. Ingrid I’d like some more information on this, if anyone cares to share. Winter is fast falling here, and even at the Target store there are blooming orchids. Nice plant structures. I’m pretty good at outside plants but have very little experience at indoor plants. The only light I have that seems decent for growing plants is east windows and a couple of north windows. No south windows at all, and my west windows I keep curtained for privacy. What type of conditions do orchids need to survive? Would they be an addition to my amaryllis for winter blooms? Carlotta

Response:

I’d like some more information on this, if anyone cares to share. Winter is fast falling here, and even at the Target store there are blooming orchids. Nice plant structures. I’m pretty good at outside plants but have very little experience at indoor plants. The only light I have that seems decent for growing plants is east windows and a couple of north windows. No south windows at all, and my west windows I keep curtained for privacy. What type of conditions do orchids need to survive? Would they be an addition to my amaryllis for winter blooms? Carlotta Iowa zone 4/5

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – << I heard someone on the radio describe orchids are being delicate flowers. When was the last time you heard really accurate information on the radio? Most of the common orchids are not delicate at all, but they require certain conditions different from ordinary houseplants. Iris, Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40 "The trouble with people is not that they don’t know but that they know so much that ain’t so." Josh Billings (Henry Wheeler Shaw), 1818-1885

Response:

What type of conditions do orchids need to survive? Would they be an addition to my amaryllis for winter blooms?

Well, I do ‘do’ indoor plants quite a bit and I could never get an orchid to survive more than a few months when I lived in Minnesota and they *never* rebloomed for me. The combination of their light, humidity, and watering require- ments were just too much for me to manage during those long Minnesota months. I kept a lot of other plants alive and flourishing, those were beyond what I was willing/able to provide for them. Now that I’m in Hawaii, they’re simple though. Just stick them on the back porch and water consistently. I’m no orchid expert (yet! Give me a decade or two!) but I read the rec.gardens.orchids newsgroup and I don’t seem to have heard of anyone who lives in a harsh winter area who hasn’t had to make some fairly extensive accomodations for their orchids to make it through the winter. (Or at least they’re fairly extensive to me!) Most orchids don’t seem to be the types you can just sit on a southern window- sill and have that be enough. Tracey

Response:

Orchid care

admin — Wed, 14 Aug 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – bit of wisdom: 1 is in pure bark; the other is in the ?peat/bark? mix (they came this way) Yup. That’s why I suggested that it might have once been a chunky bark mix that has broken down. All bark mixes will do this eventually. The problem becomes that when it does this, it gets heavier and the tiny particles pack down around the roots. This cuts off the air circulation to them which is so vital to the good health of the roots as well as the entire plant. And that’s when problems happen. We try to repot into new bark every year or two (depends on each individual growers conditions and what they actually use for their mix) to keep this from happening. i have *offiicial* orchid mix and will stop (have stopped) the misting, and will rePot them… Well, you don’t have to stop the misting altogether. Once a day is fine. And remember… if they are in the bathroom, they are going to be misted naturally every time someone takes a bath or shower. The only change I’d make to your routine (after repotting into a fresh mix) would be to your watering schedule. Don’t just measure the water and give a tiny bit. Don’t be afraid to take them to the sink and really douse them with water until you see the water pouring out the bottom of the pot. The white stuff on healthy roots (velamen) will turn bright green, telling you that those cells have absorbed moisture. This flushes excess salts out of the pot and makes for a healthier environment. When I water, I usually let the water run through the pot for a good minute or two, until I know that the bark is completely saturated right through. Then the plant can be left to dry out for the rest of the week, as it would do in nature. * * * * * Karen C. Southern CT / USDA Zone 6 Spammers be damned! I can’t be emailed from this account… "Gardeners know all the best dirt!"

Thank you VERY much for the advice and information! i appreciate it! sincerely Tanya

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – how often do you water? they require VERY little water btw i water mine ~ 1/3 cup max once per week ????? Mine get doused heavily twice a week during the summer and some of them have been living (and blooming) happily for 20+ years. Phals actually like things a bit on the moist side. Frequency of watering depends a lot on your conditions and the potting mix, but when you do water, water heavily to wet all the potting mix and to help flush accumulated salts. Bottom leaves can yellow and dies naturally as the plant ages, but often it is due to bad roots – either the potting mix has gotten too old or there too much / too much moisture around the roots. You can carefully dump the plant part way out of the pot to check the roots. If the roots are dead and/or rotten, the potting mix is probably bad and you should repot. I would use orchid sphagnum moss and a clay pot for a plant with damaged or no roots. deg

Hi i neglected to mention that the 2 phaelenopsis (spelling:) live in a *humid* bathRoom and get misted 2-3 times per day (avoiding the crowns) Plus 1 is in a mix of bark and peat (?) SOOOooo i imagine the above explains the

Response:

<< the 2 Phalaenopsis (sic) live in a *humid* bathRoom and get misted 2-3 times per day (avoiding the crowns) Plus 1 is in a mix of bark and peat I would recommend you repot both your plants into a more suitable mix. Some large garden centers sell orchid mix, or contact your nearest orchid club. Iris, Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40 "The trouble with people is not that they don’t know but that they know so much that ain’t so." Josh Billings (Henry Wheeler Shaw), 1818-1885

Hello Iris, Thanks a lot for the advice… both plants are in *orchid culture* (they came with it) (inOtherWords i did *not* rePot them

Response:

how often do you water? they require VERY little water btw i water mine ~ 1/3 cup max once per week

????? Mine get doused heavily twice a week during the summer and some of them have been living (and blooming) happily for 20+ years. Phals actually like things a bit on the moist side. Frequency of watering depends a lot on your conditions and the potting mix, but when you do water, water heavily to wet all the potting mix and to help flush accumulated salts. Bottom leaves can yellow and dies naturally as the plant ages, but often it is due to bad roots – either the potting mix has gotten too old or there too much / too much moisture around the roots. You can carefully dump the plant part way out of the pot to check the roots. If the roots are dead and/or rotten, the potting mix is probably bad and you should repot. I would use orchid sphagnum moss and a clay pot for a plant with damaged or no roots. deg

Response:

Hello Karen. thanks very much for answering! (below) bit of wisdom: i neglected to mention that the 2 phaelenopsis (spelling:) live in a *humid* bathRoom and get misted 2-3 times per day (avoiding the crowns) Plus 1 is in a mix of bark and peat (?) Of course, everyone grows orchids a bit differently according to each person’s individual growing conditions. But I’ve heard it stated that misting orchids is a little bit like masturbation!

1 is in pure bark; the other is in the ?peat/bark? mix (they came this way) If these were my plants, I’d repot them immediately into some coarse commercial orchid mix (usually consists of fir bark/charcoal/large perlite) and cut out the misting in favor of a good, deep dousing with room-temperature water once a week or as necessary.

i have *offiicial* orchid mix and will stop (have stopped) the misting, and will rePot them… THANKS! sincerely Tanya – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – * * * * * Karen C. Southern CT / USDA Zone 6 Spammers be damned! I can’t be emailed from this account… "Gardeners know all the best dirt!"

Response:

<< We recently bought a Phalaenopsis or moth orchid and we keep it inside the house. It was blooming at the time, but since then the blooms have fallen off. I’ve been looking for a good resource on orchid care on the web, but with little luck. Most sites are very general. <

Response:

Hello all, We recently bought a Phalaenopsis or moth orchid and we keep it inside the house. It was blooming at the time, but since then the blooms have fallen off. I’ve been looking for a good resource on orchid care on the web, but with little luck. Most sites are very general. Can anyone tell me how/where to prune after the blooms go away? A while "fuzz" have developed on the plant and one of the two leaves has turned all yellow. Can anyone provide some help? Thanks! Dave M.

Response:

http://www.imagine123.com/orchidtips/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello all, We recently bought a Phalaenopsis or moth orchid and we keep it inside the house. It was blooming at the time, but since then the blooms have fallen off. I’ve been looking for a good resource on orchid care on the web, but with little luck. Most sites are very general. Can anyone tell me how/where to prune after the blooms go away? A while "fuzz" have developed on the plant and one of the two leaves has turned all yellow. Can anyone provide some help? Thanks! Dave M.

Response:

supposedly, you should cut the spike to 2 nodes below the lowest bloom…or you could cut it off at the origin…(many of the orchid people suggest cutting close to the origin… many use cinnamon (the spice) on the cut part A while "fuzz" have developed on the plant and one of the two leaves has turned all yellow.

what part of the plant is the white fuzz? how often do you water? they require VERY little water btw i water mine ~ 1/3 cup max once per week Can anyone provide some help? Thanks! Dave M.

Hi Dave, if noOne from this group can answer your questions, try the following ng: rec.gardens.orchid sincerely Tanya

Response:

paper moon orchid

admin — Sat, 20 Apr 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Hi all, Someone here might be able to give me an answer to this.my papermoon orchid leaves are turning red and drying out.I am very new to orchids I don’t know if I am underwatering or what.I water once a week one leaf has already fallen off and I am getting concerned. Thanks gideon — www.gideonsway.com — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

I am not familiar with the moniker "paper moon" orchid. Can you describe it in detail for us? — Ray Barkalow < First Rays Orchids http://www.firstrays.com Secure Online Ordering & Lots of Free Info!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all, Someone here might be able to give me an answer to this.my papermoon orchid leaves are turning red and drying out.I am very new to orchids I don’t know if I am underwatering or what.I water once a week one leaf has already fallen off and I am getting concerned. Thanks gideon — www.gideonsway.com — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

I’ve known a phalaenopsis hybrid name ‘paper moon’. Arthur – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am not familiar with the moniker "paper moon" orchid. Can you describe it in detail for us? — Ray Barkalow < First Rays Orchids http://www.firstrays.com Secure Online Ordering & Lots of Free Info! Hi all, Someone here might be able to give me an answer to this.my papermoon orchid leaves are turning red and drying out.I am very new to orchids I don’t know if I am underwatering or what.I water once a week one leaf has already fallen off and I am getting concerned. Thanks gideon — www.gideonsway.com — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

And which Gideon are you? As for your orchid we will need more info before the group can offer an opinion. Like description, where you are growing, lable name if any and a picture posted to alt.binary.pictures.orchids would be a great help. — Gideon Singer In Beautiful Vancouver BC Web site: members.shaw.ca/gsinger

Response:

Help with a Phalaenopsis please

admin — Fri, 29 Mar 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

You’re welcome, Let me know if any of them work! *G* (kidding) BTW, the Charley’s GH site is good for informational purposes, but they are kind of expensive to actually purchase from. We’ve talked about supplies before here. I wonder if you could use the google groups search engine to look up any threads and find a supplier nearer to you, so you don’t have to pay so much in shipping costs. http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&group=rec.gardens.orchids K Barrett – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, I just wanted to thank you for all the information as well as the link(s)! sincerely Tanya

Response:

Hello, I just wanted to thank you for all the information as well as the link(s)! sincerely Tanya – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, I know very little about orchids but 10 days ago got a phalaenopsis orchid "reduced for a quick sale" (the alternative for the plant would have been discarded)…No buds/flowers…beautiful leaves… (I don’t care about flowers; just getting the plant back into good health) I have some questions re: its care… I have it in a bathroom (humidity) and under a fluorescent light for ~ 16 hrs/day. Congratulations! So far so good. Unless your other plants require that amount of light (16 hrs/day) you could cut it back. I think when I grew under lights I slightly mimiced the lenghtening day length, but only to a max of 14 hrs and a min of 12, but then again I had supplemented natural light. If your bathroom has none, and you are having success with your other plants, then keep your lighting the same and the orchid will adapt to it. It is in bark; i use a hydrometer for my other plants (in *soil* i.e. potting mixes) especially now w/ climate changes (zone 5(?)); and can’t with the bark; so cannot really assess the water needs — any help? (I have been misting it and its dish is on a tray of wet pebbles (UNDER its dish) — and now i have put it w/ a philodendron (humidity)) — also does one water from above or below…? One waters from above. Generally I water once a week. More if its hot. The correct answer is to water only when the plants needs it. Assessing its watering needs is the holy grail of orchid growing. Each and every person who grows orchids has their own way of watering their orchids. Your challenge is to learn how to water in your bathroom’s conditions. The tests we can use for determining when to water are feeling the pots ‘heft’. If its light then you know the bark is dry, water it and the pot gets heavier. But a better indicator is to take a BBQ bamboo skewer and stick it into the bark medium. If it comes out wet then its not the time to water. Remember more orchids are killed by over watering. When in doubt, don’t. I read in some books that one should cut the roots (aerial) that do not look good — it has quite a few that are brittle, friable but i have NOT trimmed any since i do not know how this would be done (i.e. w/ pruning shears? and would i put pruning paint on; does one cut them at an angle; and how far back? (I realize these are really dumb questions BUT… i don’t want to cause more harm to the plant) The plant will normally put out aerial roots. So don’t cut them off. When, if you do decide to cut off the roots, only cut off the black mushy ones. The silvery firm white ones are the healthy ones. Plus the roots are silvery; and i don’t know whether this is what they should look like… Yes, that’s what they should look like, with a green growing tip. If i were to repot it, i have "decorative bark for mulches, planters, etc." and do not know whether this would be advisable? — i have just about any potting mix except for orchid mix (which i cannot find where i live). Oof, this gets tough. You could go to Charley’s greenhouse web page and see if they have a picture of the sizes of barks out there. Each plant wants a different size bark, usually depending on the thickness of their root. (Fine roots, fine bark, thick beefy roots medium or large bark) Here’s the picture I was thinking of.. I hope it comes thru http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/catalog/cartimagesCharleys%20Greenhouse%20and%20GardencategoriesC292.jpg If not its on their hompage, under supplies, under orchid supplies, http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com Finally, since the plant is NOT 100% *healthy* would it be a good idea to feed it (i can get orchid food) — or wait I thank you very much in advance… Well, I’d go ahead and start treating it nice. Feeding and watering like how you’ll take care of it. Feed at 1/2 strength of whatever fertilizer you usually use for your other plants. Come back and tell us how its working out. K Barrett

Response:

Congratulations! So far so good. Unless your other plants require that amount of light (16 hrs/day) you could cut it back. I think when I grew under lights I slightly mimiced the lenghtening day length, but only to a max of 14 hrs and a min of 12, but then again I had supplemented natural light. If your bathroom has none, and you are having success with your other plants, then keep your lighting the same and the orchid will adapt to it. It is in bark; i use a hydrometer for my other plants (in *soil* i.e. potting mixes) especially now w/ climate changes (zone 5(?)); and can’t with the bark; so cannot really assess the water needs — any help? (I have been misting it and its dish is on a tray of wet pebbles (UNDER its dish) — and now i have put it w/ a philodendron (humidity)) — also does one water from above or below…?

One waters from above. Generally I water once a week. More if its hot. The correct answer is to water only when the plants needs it. Assessing its watering needs is the holy grail of orchid growing. Each and every person who grows orchids has their own way of watering their orchids. Your challenge is to learn how to water in your bathroom’s conditions. The tests we can use for determining when to water are feeling the pots ‘heft’. If its light then you know the bark is dry, water it and the pot gets heavier. But a better indicator is to take a BBQ bamboo skewer and stick it into the bark medium. If it comes out wet then its not the time to water. Remember more orchids are killed by over watering. When in doubt, don’t. I read in some books that one should cut the roots (aerial) that do not look good — it has quite a few that are brittle, friable but i have NOT trimmed any since i do not know how this would be done (i.e. w/ pruning shears? and would i put pruning paint on; does one cut them at an angle; and how far back? (I realize these are really dumb questions BUT… i don’t want to cause more harm to the plant)

The plant will normally put out aerial roots. So don’t cut them off. When, if you do decide to cut off the roots, only cut off the black mushy ones. The silvery firm white ones are the healthy ones. Plus the roots are silvery; and i don’t know whether this is what they should look like…

Yes, that’s what they should look like, with a green growing tip. If i were to repot it, i have "decorative bark for mulches, planters, etc." and do not know whether this would be advisable? — i have just about any potting mix except for orchid mix (which i cannot find where i live).

Oof, this gets tough. You could go to Charley’s greenhouse web page and see if they have a picture of the sizes of barks out there. Each plant wants a different size bark, usually depending on the thickness of their root. (Fine roots, fine bark, thick beefy roots medium or large bark) Here’s the picture I was thinking of.. I hope it comes thru http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/catalog/cartimagesCharleys%20Greenhouse%20and%20GardencategoriesC292.jpg If not its on their hompage, under supplies, under orchid supplies, http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com Finally, since the plant is NOT 100% *healthy* would it be a good idea to feed it (i can get orchid food) — or wait I thank you very much in advance…

Well, I’d go ahead and start treating it nice. Feeding and watering like how you’ll take care of it. Feed at 1/2 strength of whatever fertilizer you usually use for your other plants. Come back and tell us how its working out. K Barrett

Response:

Hello, I know very little about orchids but 10 days ago got a phalaenopsis orchid "reduced for a quick sale" (the alternative for the plant would have been discarded)…No buds/flowers…beautiful leaves… (I don’t care about flowers; just getting the plant back into good health) I have some questions re: its care… I have it in a bathroom (humidity) and under a fluorescent light for ~ 16 hrs/day. It is in bark; i use a hydrometer for my other plants (in *soil* i.e. potting mixes) especially now w/ climate changes (zone 5(?)); and can’t with the bark; so cannot really assess the water needs — any help? (I have been misting it and its dish is on a tray of wet pebbles (UNDER its dish) — and now i have put it w/ a philodendron (humidity)) — also does one water from above or below…? I read in some books that one should cut the roots (aerial) that do not look good — it has quite a few that are brittle, friable but i have NOT trimmed any since i do not know how this would be done (i.e. w/ pruning shears? and would i put pruning paint on; does one cut them at an angle; and how far back? (I realize these are really dumb questions BUT… i don’t want to cause more harm to the plant) Plus the roots are silvery; and i don’t know whether this is what they should look like… If i were to repot it, i have "decorative bark for mulches, planters, etc." and do not know whether this would be advisable? — i have just about any potting mix except for orchid mix (which i cannot find where i live). Finally, since the plant is NOT 100% *healthy* would it be a good idea to feed it (i can get orchid food) — or wait I thank you very much in advance…

Response:

When is it ok to move the blooming orchids to a 'display' area?

admin — Mon, 25 Mar 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I have a phalaenopsis that I am growing in my orchid room (artificial light) that is just starting to open up its blooms.. there are still several that are small buds and arent near opening yet.. anyway, i really like to take my flowering orchids downstairs into the living room for display, but they dont get much light in that room.. It is shielded from the sun by a front porch.. anyway, i know it is not ideal conditions for the phal to thrive… but is it ok to move it down there for a month or two while the blooms are out? Also, do i need to wait until all the blooms have opened to move it? or is it ok to move it with only a few opened and the rest as buds? I dont want to risk the buds not opening by moving it.. so please let me know if i should just leave it where it is or if its ok to move. Thanks a bunch! kim ps. the room i would like to move it in has the same temperature as the room it is in now.. the only difference would be the less light factor.

Response:

Should be fine to move it now… Might want to wait until the ones that are open right now are fully open, and then move the plant. Your plant will be fine for a few months on display. Is it ideal? No, not really. Remember to water it less when on display, and to give it extra special nice care when you put it back under the lights. Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a phalaenopsis that I am growing in my orchid room (artificial light) that is just starting to open up its blooms.. there are still several that are small buds and arent near opening yet.. anyway, i really like to take my flowering orchids downstairs into the living room for display, but they dont get much light in that room.. It is shielded from the sun by a front porch.. anyway, i know it is not ideal conditions for the phal to thrive… but is it ok to move it down there for a month or two while the blooms are out? Also, do i need to wait until all the blooms have opened to move it? or is it ok to move it with only a few opened and the rest as buds? I dont want to risk the buds not opening by moving it.. so please let me know if i should just leave it where it is or if its ok to move. Thanks a bunch! kim ps. the room i would like to move it in has the same temperature as the room it is in now.. the only difference would be the less light factor.

– Rob’s Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit

Response:

Phalaenopsis branches -> repot?

admin — Thu, 21 Mar 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Hello, My wife received a splendid bouquet of branches of orchises (Phalaenopsis). I will like to know if there is a means of making push roots and to make of them plants which I will be able to repot? Sorry for my english, I’m form Switzerland and I’m a newbie in orchids… but in admiration, especcially Isabelia Virginis and Bakaria (so beautiful)! Thank you for your assistance. Dominique

Response:

Dominique, If you mean that the bouquet is made up of the flower stalks only, then the answer is "no," you cannot root them. — Ray Barkalow < First Rays Orchids http://www.firstrays.com Secure Online Ordering & Lots of Free Info!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, My wife received a splendid bouquet of branches of orchises (Phalaenopsis). I will like to know if there is a means of making push roots and to make of them plants which I will be able to repot? Sorry for my english, I’m form Switzerland and I’m a newbie in orchids… but in admiration, especcially Isabelia Virginis and Bakaria (so beautiful)! Thank you for your assistance. Dominique

Response:

While not what you’re looking for, this site describes a method of culturing plants from orchid material: http://www2.labs.agilent.com/botany/cp/slides/tc/tc.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hello, My wife received a splendid bouquet of branches of orchises (Phalaenopsis). I will like to know if there is a means of making push roots and to make of them plants which I will be able to repot? Sorry for my english, I’m form Switzerland and I’m a newbie in orchids… but in admiration, especcially Isabelia Virginis and Bakaria (so beautiful)! Thank you for your assistance. Dominique

Response:

Phalaenopsis, yup, a newbie ;-)

admin — Thu, 21 Mar 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

We recently (4 days) took the plunge and bought a phalaenopsis orchid, our first orchid. It seemed very healthy, but the leaves are turning yellow. The medium is still damp and it is in our porch which is light all day with the venetian blinds turned so that direct sun does not get in. ??

Response:

Leaves turn yellow for two main reasons. 1- the plant is getting too much water or 2- too much light. Since this has happened so fast, I am guessing that the second is the culprit here. Phals like very filtered light. I would suggest an east or- better still- south window that gets no direct sun at all. On the other hand, water could be an issue as well. Where is the yellow forming? If the yellow color is coming from the center of the plant and moving out along the leaves, usually a water or rot issue. If it is forming in patches on the highest point of the leaves, a light issue. I usually let my Phalaenopsis dry out the slightest bit between waterings. Drainage is essential too. A common mistake made by new growers is to allow standing water to accumulate in a tray or watering dish that the pot rests in. Depending on the growing medium and your climate, Phals in large pots (4-6 inches wide) typically need watering every 3-7 days. Keep in mind too that healthy orchids getting enough light usually have a slightly yellow cast to the leaves. Dark green phalaenopsis leaves, while attractive, are usually a sign of too little light (except in cases where you have a dark flowered plant with leaves that are purple on the underside.) So if the yellowing is slight, that could be a good sign if the plant had very dark green leaves when you got it (which is very common if you buy from a grocery store or other indoor shop where the light is insufficient. Stores often do this on purpose to keep the foliage darker and more attractive, and prolong flower life.) If there is any way you can post a picture that would help too. Sorry to be so general and complex, but from this info please post back with more specifics and I am sure someone will have some good advice for you. Take care, Tom.

Response:

Tom, thank you. We moved the plant to a lower level. The yellow was on the side with the most light as was working back from the tip so with any luck. . . I now realize how absurdly simple wine is compared with orchids J Coulter see ya at atw – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I now realize how absurdly simple wine is compared with orchids J Coulter see ya at atw

Hey! LOL. How’s it going? Nice to know I am not the only orchid/wine geek on Usenet hahahaha Tom.

Response:

Suggestions for First Orchid

admin — Fri, 01 Feb 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Hi there: I’d like to hear from the experts on suggestions for a *first* orchid in the home. I have a lot of plants–mostly gesneriads. I’d like to start with orchids. I’ve read a couple of books, and joined a local club, but I’d like to hear what the people here suggest. For natural light, choices are either East or West window at the 49th parallel (short days in winter, long days in summer). Home is between 60 and 70F (night/day). Climate is dry, but many aquariums in the house. Thank you, Ezgaroth

Response:

You may get a lot of different suggestions, but for my money, phalaenopsis do great right along side of gesneriads. — Ray Barkalow < First Rays Orchids http://www.firstrays.com Secure Online Ordering & Lots of Free Info!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi there: I’d like to hear from the experts on suggestions for a *first* orchid in the home. I have a lot of plants–mostly gesneriads. I’d like to start with orchids. I’ve read a couple of books, and joined a local club, but I’d like to hear what the people here suggest. For natural light, choices are either East or West window at the 49th parallel (short days in winter, long days in summer). Home is between 60 and 70F (night/day). Climate is dry, but many aquariums in the house. Thank you, Ezgaroth

Response:

We suggest a Phalaenopsis (moth orchid) as they are relatively easy. Your light may not be sufficient though. See our web page for details on an inexpensive indoor light shelf and other tips, with numerous photos. URL: http://www.collins-consulting.org/orchids.html Hope that helps. Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi there: I’d like to hear from the experts on suggestions for a *first* orchid in the home. I have a lot of plants–mostly gesneriads. I’d like to start with orchids. I’ve read a couple of books, and joined a local club, but I’d like to hear what the people here suggest. For natural light, choices are either East or West window at the 49th parallel (short days in winter, long days in summer). Home is between 60 and 70F (night/day). Climate is dry, but many aquariums in the house. Thank you, Ezgaroth

Response:

Well, you’ve already done two of the things I recommend – read and visit a local club. The other two activities I suggest is that you visit an orchid show, and then visit a specialty orchid nursery. This will help you decide what you like! There are probably many different orchids you *could* grow, but would you *want* to? For me, fragrance is paramount, as well as rich purple/burgundy colors, as well as growing outdoors in soCal, so the cattleya hybrids are a good choice for me (assuming I pick ones that can handle the temp swings!!!!) Do you want large flowers, or small? Fragrance? Color? Flowering season? ’Weird’ flowers, etc. Phals, though highly recommended by some, are not that easy for me (too cold outdoors, too dry indoors). Cymbidiums grow like crabgrass. Cattleyas, laelias, etc. are somewhere in between so give me a horticultural challenge with rewards I appreciate. I’d also recommend you go with hybrids well known for their forgiving nature. Species are charming, but the selection process that breeders have done include ease of growth in home conditions. In the cattleya world, the complex hybrids called Sophrolaeliocattleyas (composed of three genera) and Potinaras (composed of species from four different genera) are often very forgiving and bloom more than once a year; but there are many, many choices. One thing to remember – unlike your african violets (and their relatives) most of the popular orchids are epiphytes and have a distinct personality that differs from plants growing in soil. I suppose some paphs come close to growing in conditions like your gesneriads. But a good number of orchids come from conditions also inhabited by cacti and succulents (really!) and overwatering is THE most common mistake made by beginners. You could always take the smorgasboard approach. By one plant of each major tribe or subtribe commonly grown, and see what works for you. Many vendors offer starter packages that include a variety of orchids. -dan

[snip]

Response:

My golly gosh… Did I just find an insinuation that there are orchids that people do NOT want to grow???? Kye

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, you’ve already done two of the things I recommend – read and visit a local club. The other two activities I suggest is that you visit an orchid show, and then visit a specialty orchid nursery. This will help you decide what you like! There are probably many different orchids you *could* grow, but would you *want* to? For me, fragrance is paramount, as well as rich purple/burgundy colors, as well as growing outdoors in soCal, so the cattleya hybrids are a good choice for me (assuming I pick ones that can handle the temp swings!!!!) Do you want large flowers, or small? Fragrance? Color? Flowering season? ’Weird’ flowers, etc. Phals, though highly recommended by some, are not that easy for me (too cold outdoors, too dry indoors). Cymbidiums grow like crabgrass. Cattleyas, laelias, etc. are somewhere in between so give me a horticultural challenge with rewards I appreciate. I’d also recommend you go with hybrids well known for their forgiving nature. Species are charming, but the selection process that breeders have done include ease of growth in home conditions. In the cattleya world, the complex hybrids called Sophrolaeliocattleyas (composed of three genera) and Potinaras (composed of species from four different genera) are often very forgiving and bloom more than once a year; but there are many, many choices. One thing to remember – unlike your african violets (and their relatives) most of the popular orchids are epiphytes and have a distinct personality that differs from plants growing in soil. I suppose some paphs come close to growing in conditions like your gesneriads. But a good number of orchids come from conditions also inhabited by cacti and succulents (really!) and overwatering is THE most common mistake made by beginners. You could always take the smorgasboard approach. By one plant of each major tribe or subtribe commonly grown, and see what works for you. Many vendors offer starter packages that include a variety of orchids. -dan Hi there: I’d like to hear from the experts on suggestions for a *first* orchid in the home. I have a lot of plants–mostly gesneriads. I’d like to start with orchids. I’ve read a couple of books, and joined a local club, but I’d like to hear what the people here suggest. [snip]

Response:

I grow tons of African violets and lots of Nemantanthus (sp?), and if you are growing them successfully in natural light, I would highly recommend phals and paphs as starter orchids/companion plants (as well as bromeliads). Jean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi there: I’d like to hear from the experts on suggestions for a *first* orchid in the home. I have a lot of plants–mostly gesneriads. I’d like to start with orchids. I’ve read a couple of books, and joined a local club, but I’d like to hear what the people here suggest. For natural light, choices are either East or West window at the 49th parallel (short days in winter, long days in summer). Home is between 60 and 70F (night/day). Climate is dry, but many aquariums in the house. Thank you, Ezgaroth

Response:

Looking for Recommendations

admin — Thu, 24 Jan 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

A pair of shoplight hung together (4 tubes) will over winter even large Cattleyas. But it is easier to use them to bloom things like Encyclia, Epidendrum, mini catts Or Phalaenopsis. If you are growing something which really stretches the ability of the lamps, remember to 1) buy new bulbs EVERY year (you can not visually check the condition of the lamps) 2) summer what you can outdoors. The summer growth spurt will help many plants maintain the vigor they would loose to poor light otherwise. Many that are marginal under florescence will bloom after being given the summer boost. Good Luck. SuE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you buy shoplights, you are limited to about 40W. They are all the same, regardless of brand. I think that newer ones are 38W or something silly, I haven’t bought any in five years or so. Any shoplight will be the same. You can spend as much money as you would like on custom lights. I would save it for plants. As a tip, two shoplights illuminate a 2 x 4′ shelf very well… I usually build shelves in 4′ increments. I’ve seen some people use a couple of 100W or 60W incandescent lights in clip on fixtures, one on either side of a modestly sized window. You can get ‘full spectrum’ incandescent lights cheap. I find that the cheapest ones are not at nursery or garden supply stores. We have something called ‘Meijer’ around here (a megastore kind of thing all over the midwest), and they are dirt cheap there. I bet Walmart would have a similar product. Thanks for the info Rob. One more question about the lights, is there a specific wattage or size that would be good or normal/average? — Rob’s Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit

Response:

If you buy shoplights, you are limited to about 40W. They are all the same, regardless of brand. I think that newer ones are 38W or something silly, I haven’t bought any in five years or so. Any shoplight will be the same. You can spend as much money as you would like on custom lights. I would save it for plants. As a tip, two shoplights illuminate a 2 x 4′ shelf very well… I usually build shelves in 4′ increments. I’ve seen some people use a couple of 100W or 60W incandescent lights in clip on fixtures, one on either side of a modestly sized window. You can get ‘full spectrum’ incandescent lights cheap. I find that the cheapest ones are not at nursery or garden supply stores. We have something called ‘Meijer’ around here (a megastore kind of thing all over the midwest), and they are dirt cheap there. I bet Walmart would have a similar product. Thanks for the info Rob. One more question about the lights, is there a specific wattage or size that would be good or normal/average?

Response:

Thanks for the info Rob. One more question about the lights, is there a specific wattage or size that would be good or normal/average?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – – I’d like to get a light for my orchids but I don’t know where to start. Is there such thing as a beginner light? Where do I get something like that? Can I just go to Home Depot or my neighborhood hardware store and get something? What do I want to get? Any light is fine. A lot of beginners (and experts) use a 4 foot ’shoplight’ fixture. Two tubes, of any cheap denomination, will get you started. 10 bucks on sale, 15 if you get screwed. – I want to get a digital humidity meter, again, anyone have any recommendations? No help for you there. I don’t think most beginners need them. If you are comfortable and you don’t wake up in the morning with a sore/dry throat, it will probably be ok. If you think it is dry in the house, get a humidifier (10 bucks, 20 for a big one) for the room. Or invest a bit more and get a whole house humidifier. That will pay off in comfort in the long run. – Anyone have any recommendations for mounted orchids (not in a pot but mounted on wood) that I could hang in a pretty humid room with indirect light? Something that smells good would be great. Any suggestions? Any of the Encyclias would work. Enc. cordata, alata… Brassavola nodosa is certainly nice and easy, with great smelling flowers. All would benefit from a little supplemental light. Bulbophyllums would probably work, but smells good is not a traditional feature… Interesting smell is often observed. Rob — Rob’s Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit

Response:

– I’d like to get a light for my orchids but I don’t know where to start. Is there such thing as a beginner light? Where do I get something like that? Can I just go to Home Depot or my neighborhood hardware store and get something? What do I want to get?

Any light is fine. A lot of beginners (and experts) use a 4 foot ’shoplight’ fixture. Two tubes, of any cheap denomination, will get you started. 10 bucks on sale, 15 if you get screwed. – I want to get a digital humidity meter, again, anyone have any recommendations?

No help for you there. I don’t think most beginners need them. If you are comfortable and you don’t wake up in the morning with a sore/dry throat, it will probably be ok. If you think it is dry in the house, get a humidifier (10 bucks, 20 for a big one) for the room. Or invest a bit more and get a whole house humidifier. That will pay off in comfort in the long run. – Anyone have any recommendations for mounted orchids (not in a pot but mounted on wood) that I could hang in a pretty humid room with indirect light? Something that smells good would be great. Any suggestions?

Any of the Encyclias would work. Enc. cordata, alata… Brassavola nodosa is certainly nice and easy, with great smelling flowers. All would benefit from a little supplemental light. Bulbophyllums would probably work, but smells good is not a traditional feature… Interesting smell is often observed. Rob — Rob’s Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit

Response:

Hi all, I’m just a novice Orchid grower and would really like some advice from whoever is on here. – I’d like to get a light for my orchids but I don’t know where to start. Is there such thing as a beginner light? Where do I get something like that? Can I just go to Home Depot or my neighborhood hardware store and get something? What do I want to get? – I want to get a digital humidity meter, again, anyone have any recommendations? – Anyone have any recommendations for mounted orchids (not in a pot but mounted on wood) that I could hang in a pretty humid room with indirect light? Something that smells good would be great. Any suggestions? Thanks a lot! Greg

Response:

Cornell watering experiments

admin — Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Like I said, he uses osmunda fiber, packed in. Now I don’t have any experience with osmunda, but watering every day sounds a bit much. — Reka http://www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "I hate flowers – I paint them because they’re cheaper than models and they don’t move." –Georgia O’Keeffe | If you are going to water your plants every day you had best use a very open | well drained potting media and be prepared to repot often, or mount the | plants to leave all the roots exposed.

Response:

This sounds perfectly normal to me–for plants in the wild or mounted. Remember, in nature, they don’t grow with their leaves crammed into a pot, but open to air. Think of hanging vandas without any pot or basket. I’m sure cattleyas would be perfectly happy this way.

Response:

The basis behind semi-hydro! — Ray Barkalow < First Rays Orchids http://www.firstrays.com Secure Online Ordering & Lots of Free Info!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am currently reading an old orchid book (ABC of Orchid Growing, 1956, John V. Watkins, Prentice-Hall) and found this interesting bit of info: p. 44: "Research at Cornell demonstrated that daily watering of Cattleya and Phalaenopsis orchids resulted in best growth and flowering. Plants watered at weekly intervals were inferior." p.91: "Since the dawn of orchidology it has been accepted practice to allow Cattleya plants to become dry, the pot and plant light to lift, therefore, before the next soaking. For more than a century, many millions of perfect blossoms and good plants have been produced by such a regimen. Research at Cornell University by R.G. Mott demonstrated that daily watering through one year resulted in maximum growth and flowering with his test clone–Cattleya labiata variety Amesiana. Mr. Mott suggested that plants watered daily be fertilized regularly to replace nutrients lost by leaching." I have posted the corresponding photo from the book at ABPO. It remains to be said that he used mainly osmunda fiber in potting. Now what do you all out there have to say about this tidbit of information? — Reka http://www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "I hate flowers